Sew the center front lining (piece N) to the side front lining (piece D).
Press seam allowance open.
Repeat for the other side.
OPTIONAL: add pockets in a style of your choice. On the pattern, we have included recommended pocket placements for ½" by 5" welt or double-welt pockets.
Depending on your physique, you may wish to move the pocket placements, and those with larger hands may wish to widen the pocket opening, but these should at least be a good place to start. The pocket should begin immediately below the breast, and the pocket pouch should not extend into the hem facings.
We recommend using the shell fabric (black wool gabardine or black cotton twill) for the welts, and any fabric should do nicely for the pocket pouches; we like to use the black lining fabric, but white muslin would work well, too.
Sew center back lining (piece P) to the side back lining (piece O). Press seam allowance open.
Sew the two back assemblies together along the center back. Press seam allowance open.
TIP: Rather than pressing the lining seam allowances open, you may instead wish to serge them together.
TIP: The lining panels have our standard ⅜" seam allowance, but you may wish to taper them to ¼" an inch or two from the beginnings and ends of the seam lines to give the lining body some additional fullness and avoid any pulling/contorting/etc. of the garment body once the two are "married" later.
NOTE: As the VOY jackets were always worn open, the action pleats were, for all intents and purposes, entirely cosmetic, rather than functional - that is, the jacket was just supposed to look like the upper portion of the jumpsuit, and the action pleats didn't need to actually "work."
However, we have designed our VOY jacket pattern so that the action pleats are, as Data would say, "fully functional."
The spandex panel serves the same purpose it did on the jumpsuit: to allow the action pleats to open as needed then pull them back into place, but we have also accommodated for the pleats in the lining assembly via three pleats in the lining back: a 1" pleat at the center back and two ½" pleats along the side back seams.
To form the side back pleat, stitch downward about 2" from the top of the lining assembly again ½" from the center back/side back seam line, reinforcing the stitch line at the bottom.
Stitch upward 1" from the bottom of the lining assembly in the same manner.
Open the lining assembly and press the ½" pleat into place.
Repeat for the other side.
To form the center back pleat, stitch downward about 2" from the top of the lining assembly again 1" from the center back seam line, reinforcing the stitch line at the bottom.
Stitch upward 1" from the bottom of the lining assembly in the same manner.
Open the lining assembly and press the 1" pleat into place.
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