May 19, 2015

Tutorial, part 2 - Jacket Body

Sew the center front (piece C) to the side front (piece D), right sides together, and press seam allowances open.

















Baste or sew the seam allowances open at the top and bottom of the jacket body within the seam allowance.















Repeat for the other side. 


Sew the side back (piece E) to the center back (piece F), right sides together. 

While sewing the uppermost portion of these two pieces together, the center back will need to be rotated slightly so the edges of the action pleat properly align. 

This is most easily accomplished by sewing the two together with the center back body panel on top, simply moving the excess out of the way when pivoting at the bottom of the action pleat.

(VOY duty jumpsuit pictured)



Clip both layers diagonally at the bottom corner of the action pleat to the pivot line.



Press the seam allowances open beneath the action pleat. 

Press the action pleat toward the center back along the fold line.



The pleat should lie flat when viewed from the right side. 

Also note that the top edges should be flush, and there should be no contortions or puckers. 

If the fabric is "warbly" around the bottom of the action pleat, massage it with a bit of steaming and pressing until it's smooth.


You may go ahead and remove the basting thread if you wish.



















Pin or baste the action pleat closed for now. 

Repeat for the other side. 

Sew the two back halves together along the center back, right sides together. 

Press seam allowances open.



Sew the spandex panel to the inside of the jumpsuit alongside the centermost edges of the action pleat, then baste or sew the top of the action pleats and spandex panel to the top of the jacket.




We recommend basting several times: ¼" from top, ½" from top, and ¾" from top. This is to keep the spandex from stretching as much, both during this basting/sewing and when attaching the yoke later. 

We also recommend reinforcing the stitch over each action pleat several times.

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