tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-77634382191914654142024-02-19T01:02:37.757-08:00Star Trek: Voyager Jacket Analysis/TutorialAnalysis of the Starfleet jacket occasionally seen in the later seasons of STAR TREK: VOYAGER, with a sewing tutorial intended to accompany our STAR TREK: VOYAGER jacket sewing pattern. Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.comBlogger23125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-59495476162707556202015-05-19T09:31:00.004-07:002021-10-03T21:04:55.356-07:00Tutorial, part 13 - Lining to Body<div style="text-align: justify;">
Fold the hem facings downward at the jacket body's center front.</div>
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Pin the jacket lining assembly to the jacket body assembly along the center front and neckline, right sides together, then sew the lining assembly to the body assembly, using division-color thread for the yoke and black for the jacket body.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-W1JtkeWA1OfhMnrPk0q5rFzhXtZiR_HVpPNC0H7waEz3HTJFIq4BufylWIpRRKciZ6rYMLvJiJ4hLzVNA2mrZQ2CnTG7ryB9CjV0V1XWBIyeYmWmiT2Z2wGE2KQgVPIQOAOsCb46ECs/s1600/12a-lining+assembly+to+body.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-W1JtkeWA1OfhMnrPk0q5rFzhXtZiR_HVpPNC0H7waEz3HTJFIq4BufylWIpRRKciZ6rYMLvJiJ4hLzVNA2mrZQ2CnTG7ryB9CjV0V1XWBIyeYmWmiT2Z2wGE2KQgVPIQOAOsCb46ECs/s400/12a-lining+assembly+to+body.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Clip away the upper corners of the front opening, and clip the neckline seam allowances as needed for it to turn well. </div>
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Turn the jacket's right side out (so the lining is on the inside) and press the center front and neckline edges. </div>
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Carefully pin the jacket body to the lining at the yoke/body and yoke facing/lining seam lines, matching the two exactly, then "stitch in the ditch" through all layers with black thread as far as possible to secure the lining assembly. (We recommend stitching up to about 2" from the armscye, if you're able.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-bUKBlKE6HYIY4mmwC5qatyVtMUUERG5DWd3fWSmtSc4xBHaJRY6c3VprLeMbgt2lRiJvntCfpFNv9tuTJrjwf4_hzIubhZL3yTPamdV1zux1sa8gZybMPpL5bXkKUHGRxcZVnpsBI44/s1600/12b-stitch+in+ditch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-bUKBlKE6HYIY4mmwC5qatyVtMUUERG5DWd3fWSmtSc4xBHaJRY6c3VprLeMbgt2lRiJvntCfpFNv9tuTJrjwf4_hzIubhZL3yTPamdV1zux1sa8gZybMPpL5bXkKUHGRxcZVnpsBI44/s400/12b-stitch+in+ditch.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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You may also wish to "stitch in the ditch" in the same manner along the centermost 1-2" of the shoulder seam using division-color thread (just stop before you get to your shoulder pad!), as well as your jacket's back.</div>
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Fold the jacket's hem facings upward again. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhileUnRJ5btjP-Lh4WSy4BuWJdP1iDOH4lAVwbcfaxVRC3WMwGYJvgD488xQMEqxj1FmnWFI-fA0yEQv5IuV0eGGBktciPvlQuxQBKwhS8hGg4UYtyyFGpwHLV9v1eaZa3WDMPmdu7Ya4/s1600/12c-waistband+top+sewn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhileUnRJ5btjP-Lh4WSy4BuWJdP1iDOH4lAVwbcfaxVRC3WMwGYJvgD488xQMEqxj1FmnWFI-fA0yEQv5IuV0eGGBktciPvlQuxQBKwhS8hGg4UYtyyFGpwHLV9v1eaZa3WDMPmdu7Ya4/s320/12c-waistband+top+sewn.JPG" width="250" /></a>Stretch your jacket's side panels back to their original shape, pulling the elastic as needed for the jacket to lie flat. </div>
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Using a zipper/piping foot and black thread, secure the upper edge of the side waistband facing to the jacket by stitching through all layers from the center back/side back seam line to the center front/side front seam line, using the upper edge of the elastic as a guide. (This should be ⅜" from the top of the waistband.) </div>
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Once finished, your jacket sides should look something like this: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg1_JSbC9fcoeIzb9398EpQ3t5ExShqE2ZHVAcJlQI-xmHKB7DNiU926GZok-HoEY97EKlHRPjcgdMtNW8aSNWt_CqbKcaViL-BxlmCzjMzUOOsiAh16-lGVjPXuOXrykoul0Wrr7vM9Q/s1600/12d-side+waistband.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg1_JSbC9fcoeIzb9398EpQ3t5ExShqE2ZHVAcJlQI-xmHKB7DNiU926GZok-HoEY97EKlHRPjcgdMtNW8aSNWt_CqbKcaViL-BxlmCzjMzUOOsiAh16-lGVjPXuOXrykoul0Wrr7vM9Q/s400/12d-side+waistband.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Turn the hem facings upward (including the bottom portion of the front facing) and press.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYhxy0_i53VvYpAn_j9Wu0ex1sTS571Aj4u9bhyphenhyphen_goYX5RXlPBKRxWESLZOAr8cBUyX1Dpc9U7fGD_JxBMaAmbIm5cfXaQKA90VlmBN0tK_8lZfpZs145I57EVkYtciW4ZGp6WQMMNwy8/s1600/12e-facing+folded+up.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYhxy0_i53VvYpAn_j9Wu0ex1sTS571Aj4u9bhyphenhyphen_goYX5RXlPBKRxWESLZOAr8cBUyX1Dpc9U7fGD_JxBMaAmbIm5cfXaQKA90VlmBN0tK_8lZfpZs145I57EVkYtciW4ZGp6WQMMNwy8/s400/12e-facing+folded+up.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Hand-sew the top of the center front and center back hem facings to the underlining. </div>
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Fold the front facing back to the underside. </div>
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Hand sew the front facing to the hem facing at the bottom of the jacket where the two overlap.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ZZHLT2XGG6IuhmFG6UQ-PCUD5evtLA22FUk9Wv8C38DYJm6RpD5Zlpz9kv43VU0Jd27-2Sc-b_dnggXDqeJ01DH6BjExc6keyXu-qrygSm4_24RD8wKM-PiBkTTkbG1KBW1DMLCm0Ok/s1600/12f+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ZZHLT2XGG6IuhmFG6UQ-PCUD5evtLA22FUk9Wv8C38DYJm6RpD5Zlpz9kv43VU0Jd27-2Sc-b_dnggXDqeJ01DH6BjExc6keyXu-qrygSm4_24RD8wKM-PiBkTTkbG1KBW1DMLCm0Ok/s400/12f+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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OPTIONAL: If you were unable or did not wish to serge the facing edge for some reason, or if you wish to further prevent fabric unraveling, apply liquid fray preventer to the edge you just sewed.</div>
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OPTIONAL: To further prevent your front facings from flapping about, hand sew the facing/lining seam allowances to the underlining.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTQm81xlWssAUU4ujkOQWXgLVIx2_4J6u5KwdindGPPqleZZt9nzLId4pE3cj2xyGDitiwvJKd4mvQI-A7JtvDxy_lCwafbW-aD1LLz-EAjbOM3tTZ4smJEx0g9hBWoQHhtICTtsyGXUY/s1600/23e-facing+seam+allowances+hand+sewn+to+underlining.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTQm81xlWssAUU4ujkOQWXgLVIx2_4J6u5KwdindGPPqleZZt9nzLId4pE3cj2xyGDitiwvJKd4mvQI-A7JtvDxy_lCwafbW-aD1LLz-EAjbOM3tTZ4smJEx0g9hBWoQHhtICTtsyGXUY/s400/23e-facing+seam+allowances+hand+sewn+to+underlining.JPG" width="392" /></a></div>
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Pull up the bottom of the lining so the its raw edge and seam line are flush with those of the hem facing. </div>
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Slip stitch the lining assembly bottom to the jacket bottom, matching seam lines and leaving the centermost edges free for the time being.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjFxF6ZfPoJOi3nsbIkaM_O8MvIdzv_KPb0klTfg96myPUcrFSRJXdlqLDveWkyjtYkYixSg3ABZTQjBCLXFygronyB6xlc9IHyb8TXhjdTgac90Ac27Wp0RLl99oeaO-FIHABxw1low/s1600/12g-lining+sewn+to+hem+facings.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjFxF6ZfPoJOi3nsbIkaM_O8MvIdzv_KPb0klTfg96myPUcrFSRJXdlqLDveWkyjtYkYixSg3ABZTQjBCLXFygronyB6xlc9IHyb8TXhjdTgac90Ac27Wp0RLl99oeaO-FIHABxw1low/s400/12g-lining+sewn+to+hem+facings.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: It's extremely helpful to have somebody else stretch out the jacket sides temporarily while you vertically pin the lining into place every half inch or so, then, while hand sewing, bend the jacket over a finger or two to sufficiently stretch it. It can be pretty annoying and/or time-consuming, which might be part of why this jacket was so seldom seen on-screen ... </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCv3s5QgdzTV871qZcDVTwXdsIr5wYZHj5eX0QQTtdBbDt9d1CkfLYcGOH6uyPeuRpZsWtj0LPdwnX4PKMVpARvom5AqldwdYzfV0d1z_DTTjVFBpfXqIDfbApUZTjKXMR79k9wR_nxio/s1600/Data+I+hate+this.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCv3s5QgdzTV871qZcDVTwXdsIr5wYZHj5eX0QQTtdBbDt9d1CkfLYcGOH6uyPeuRpZsWtj0LPdwnX4PKMVpARvom5AqldwdYzfV0d1z_DTTjVFBpfXqIDfbApUZTjKXMR79k9wR_nxio/s320/Data+I+hate+this.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I hate this!</td></tr>
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Press the excess lining downward, forming a jump pleat. </div>
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Slip stitch the front edge of the lining to the front facing along the lower edge and press. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JSizQYuy3BogDIFgtXTp7VQiwoFZW16Jr1Cn2_bm2m-U2cAjgAj-D91XjCcV7kPpyZ-63UkiHb4KWVXplRUj_FiT2vodhhYU-thdWxMptLVXfGGf0dqfjgK6XNedzvlX_htMZ58Mzas/s1600/12h-lining+pressed+down+and+front+sewn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JSizQYuy3BogDIFgtXTp7VQiwoFZW16Jr1Cn2_bm2m-U2cAjgAj-D91XjCcV7kPpyZ-63UkiHb4KWVXplRUj_FiT2vodhhYU-thdWxMptLVXfGGf0dqfjgK6XNedzvlX_htMZ58Mzas/s400/12h-lining+pressed+down+and+front+sewn.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Lastly, hand sew the sleeve lining to the sleeve, matching raw edges, and press the excess sleeve lining downward. </div>
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CONGRATULATIONS! </div>
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YOU'RE FINISHED!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfofFFgJWxJLndGPIR1hFdPNEt1rOu7MptrDMa9NT0Jc_p7V_7loMQ_VKmBTdAXxDJ006j2OTv7iWwq-8LxICR_iLK0oDntYptG3WwvDlhgZR2xuMSHKvDmQuxxXp6u-fBmzd3VnPFJv8/s1600/Data+yes+GIF.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfofFFgJWxJLndGPIR1hFdPNEt1rOu7MptrDMa9NT0Jc_p7V_7loMQ_VKmBTdAXxDJ006j2OTv7iWwq-8LxICR_iLK0oDntYptG3WwvDlhgZR2xuMSHKvDmQuxxXp6u-fBmzd3VnPFJv8/s400/Data+yes+GIF.gif" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">If you found this tutorial helpful, please <b><u><a href="https://ko-fi.com/obsessivecostumingdude" target="_blank">support my costume research on Ko-Fi</a></u></b>! :)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>
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Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-90915495276590139872015-05-19T09:19:00.004-07:002016-05-21T22:47:01.179-07:00Tutorial, part 12 - Elastic<div style="text-align: justify;">
Cut an appropriate length of 2" elastic, plus about ¾" in addition to whatever amount you require for a comfortable elasticized fit. </div>
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(And you do know how much you need because you made a muslin test or three first, right???) </div>
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I (Alex), for instance, need about 8" of elastic on each side for a comfortable fit, so I cut an 8 ¾" length of elastic. </div>
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Place your elastic so its lower edge is flush with the body/facing seam line, and it overhangs the side front/center front (or side back/center back) seam line by about ⅜". </div>
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Fasten the elastic to the jumpsuit body securely by vertically stitching exactly over the body panel seam line. (Since you can't actually see it, just give it your best guess. It'll probably be fine.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhatZLjegRP36nkt6HMNcQTL1RRugTN9goeaqnxwdsEJY-xvHFCOumVutxf1BnwRQFdUcxp8XhwSofLIx-HHdgH83J5EyI3mbB2nljkeEgBxOJIwxRx3pZsKI9E01jDHLAJDGHnK40RWRI/s1600/11-elastic.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhatZLjegRP36nkt6HMNcQTL1RRugTN9goeaqnxwdsEJY-xvHFCOumVutxf1BnwRQFdUcxp8XhwSofLIx-HHdgH83J5EyI3mbB2nljkeEgBxOJIwxRx3pZsKI9E01jDHLAJDGHnK40RWRI/s400/11-elastic.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Repeat for the other end of the elastic.</div>
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This will cause the side of your jacket to pull, but don't worry; that's the whole point! We'll finish the side waistbands in the next step.</div>
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Repeat for the other side.<br />
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-11-hem-facings.html">Tutorial, part 11 - Hem Facings</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-13-lining-to-body.html">Tutorial, part 13 - Lining to Body</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-68881236142513666112015-05-19T09:18:00.003-07:002016-05-21T22:46:57.090-07:00Tutorial, part 11 - Hem Facings<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sew the center front hem facing (piece J) to the side waistband facing (piece K). </div>
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Sew that assembly to the center back facing (piece L). </div>
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Repeat for the other side, then sew the two assemblies together along the center back. </div>
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Press all seam allowances open.</div>
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Sew the facing assembly to the jacket body, right sides facing and matching seam lines.</div>
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Fold the facing assembly upward and press. </div>
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Understitch the seam allowance to the facing assembly ⅛" from the bottom of the jacket.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBO0vafljBYw01gPZNXFLDeyHsBil9cRIs-DKe6-owcQrATajbR_r9YRJX-t6BjJVg_oIyCXIG5LDvADcelVcpO3wQcj8dZBbKdrrBKbVTfFHdpxxngu-0d3yhdWusTrUhehIaEgxpmc/s1600/20b-facings+attached+and+understitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBO0vafljBYw01gPZNXFLDeyHsBil9cRIs-DKe6-owcQrATajbR_r9YRJX-t6BjJVg_oIyCXIG5LDvADcelVcpO3wQcj8dZBbKdrrBKbVTfFHdpxxngu-0d3yhdWusTrUhehIaEgxpmc/s400/20b-facings+attached+and+understitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-10-yoke-facings-to-lining.html">Tutorial, part 10 - Yoke Facings to Lining</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-12-elastic.html">Tutorial, part 12 - Elastic</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-70784682700403530912015-05-19T09:16:00.002-07:002016-05-21T22:46:53.423-07:00Tutorial, part 10 - Yoke Facings to Lining<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sew the back yoke facing to the back lining assembly, right sides together, with ¾" seam allowance. </div>
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Trim the seam allowances to ⅜" and press open.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjFl_O8ACBEtQAnJoRSgSJxdEWMlO2QeVlRPukBHeiuw1a9TWNmg1l-rm_MmYShjsY3JvNCGQPfA39WEKdHw_0Z-lMVO4okSzupSptml15U12MCS__ka9uLOVcMSCxDnJU7xsKLh2fl0/s1600/9b-pressed+open.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjFl_O8ACBEtQAnJoRSgSJxdEWMlO2QeVlRPukBHeiuw1a9TWNmg1l-rm_MmYShjsY3JvNCGQPfA39WEKdHw_0Z-lMVO4okSzupSptml15U12MCS__ka9uLOVcMSCxDnJU7xsKLh2fl0/s400/9b-pressed+open.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Pin the front facing (piece I) to the centermost front lining assembly, with upper side/open edges flush and right sides together. The front facing will overhang the bottom of the center front lining by 2". </div>
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Beginning at the top, sew the front facing to the front lining assembly, stopping 3" from the bottom of the lining. </div>
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Press the seam allowances toward the lining, including the bottom (un-sewn) centermost edge of lining.<br />
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Sew the front yoke facing to the front lining assembly, right sides together, with ¾" seam allowance. </div>
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Trim the seam allowances to ⅜" and press open.</div>
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Sew the front lining assembly to the back lining assembly at the shoulder seam and press seam allowances open. </div>
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Repeat for the other side. </div>
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Sew the sleeve lining (piece Q) to the lining assembly, matching edges and notches. </div>
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Repeat for the other side. </div>
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Close the lining assembly sides and sleeves in one continuous stitch, as done previously with the jacket body, and press seam allowances open. </div>
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Press the bottom of the sleeve linings upward ⅜" toward the wrong side.</div>
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Press the bottom of the lining body assembly upward ⅜" toward the wrong side as well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXOozT-Cm5Cesid4WNCeR4flFTvBhcSRPdNtYszMAAtxE_Nf9pL1bsIa0ojCC6lYPsi5hd73BMpfKaZXEPbWADoWS83mIyDlsw081zCTohXJH5M-Efyz2u-ifaSnVK8KBNZDW31XcZV30/s1600/9h-lining+bottom+pressed+up.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXOozT-Cm5Cesid4WNCeR4flFTvBhcSRPdNtYszMAAtxE_Nf9pL1bsIa0ojCC6lYPsi5hd73BMpfKaZXEPbWADoWS83mIyDlsw081zCTohXJH5M-Efyz2u-ifaSnVK8KBNZDW31XcZV30/s400/9h-lining+bottom+pressed+up.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Your jacket's lining assembly should now look like this:</div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-9-lining-assembly.html">Tutorial, part 9 - Lining Assembly</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-11-hem-facings.html">Tutorial, part 11 - Hem Facings</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-9127295383918568652015-05-19T09:05:00.006-07:002016-05-21T22:46:49.954-07:00Tutorial, part 9 - Lining Assembly<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sew the center front lining (piece N) to the side front lining (piece D). </div>
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Press seam allowance open. </div>
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Repeat for the other side. </div>
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OPTIONAL: add pockets in a style of your choice. On the pattern, we have included recommended pocket placements for ½" by 5" welt or double-welt pockets. </div>
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Depending on your physique, you may wish to move the pocket placements, and those with larger hands may wish to widen the pocket opening, but these should at least be a good place to start. The pocket should begin immediately below the breast, and the pocket pouch should not extend into the hem facings. </div>
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We recommend using the shell fabric (black wool gabardine or black cotton twill) for the welts, and any fabric should do nicely for the pocket pouches; we like to use the black lining fabric, but white muslin would work well, too.</div>
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Sew center back lining (piece P) to the side back lining (piece O). Press seam allowance open. </div>
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Sew the two back assemblies together along the center back. Press seam allowance open.</div>
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TIP: Rather than pressing the lining seam allowances open, you may instead wish to serge them together. </div>
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TIP: The lining panels have our standard ⅜" seam allowance, but you may wish to taper them to ¼" an inch or two from the beginnings and ends of the seam lines to give the lining body some additional fullness and avoid any pulling/contorting/etc. of the garment body once the two are "married" later.</div>
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<i>NOTE: As <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-2-body-panels.html" target="_blank">the VOY jackets were always worn open</a></b>, the action pleats were, for all intents and purposes, entirely cosmetic, rather than functional - that is, the jacket was just supposed to look like the upper portion of the jumpsuit, and the action pleats didn't need to actually "work." </i></div>
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<i>However, we have designed our VOY jacket pattern so that the action pleats are, as Data would say, "fully functional." </i></div>
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<i>The spandex panel serves the same purpose it did on the jumpsuit: to allow the action pleats to open as needed then pull them back into place, but we have also accommodated for the pleats in the lining assembly via three pleats in the lining back: a 1" pleat at the center back and two ½" pleats along the side back seams. </i></div>
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To form the side back pleat, stitch downward about 2" from the top of the lining assembly again ½" from the center back/side back seam line, reinforcing the stitch line at the bottom. </div>
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Stitch upward 1" from the bottom of the lining assembly in the same manner.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmkyVp1JOhT7jGgPaaMzMsP8fzqafwWfLQm-gfWse27NzqOycFvafqkdK1-DHKa9GSD97-Md3cQ5FMh336Ew2t1FoTO1FIApsMrTKvTS3nLSySEj5QcM9scdh9Zs5fRmxhjeYpJf91imM/s1600/8b-side+back+pleat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmkyVp1JOhT7jGgPaaMzMsP8fzqafwWfLQm-gfWse27NzqOycFvafqkdK1-DHKa9GSD97-Md3cQ5FMh336Ew2t1FoTO1FIApsMrTKvTS3nLSySEj5QcM9scdh9Zs5fRmxhjeYpJf91imM/s400/8b-side+back+pleat.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Open the lining assembly and press the ½" pleat into place. </div>
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Repeat for the other side.</div>
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To form the center back pleat, stitch downward about 2" from the top of the lining assembly again 1" from the center back seam line, reinforcing the stitch line at the bottom. </div>
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Stitch upward 1" from the bottom of the lining assembly in the same manner.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcz2tF1pw5fP4HYEHTtZIvvg2DQaLqasSn7o7FLrd8rdSKsHtMf8gWDY3GRH9B4mdvVC0Mz82DGa2PVI6f9-PoUSxQx5M1Z7SE5e_8FYL-w6kBwqcj6ma2DI587uGuhbdJ8qqDEoR1q0Q/s1600/8c-center+back+pleat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcz2tF1pw5fP4HYEHTtZIvvg2DQaLqasSn7o7FLrd8rdSKsHtMf8gWDY3GRH9B4mdvVC0Mz82DGa2PVI6f9-PoUSxQx5M1Z7SE5e_8FYL-w6kBwqcj6ma2DI587uGuhbdJ8qqDEoR1q0Q/s400/8c-center+back+pleat.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Open the lining assembly and press the 1" pleat into place. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq8gmfSNasJGdGbCP7zDRXm2J5s_5T68x6MJpC2LyiAcj3lJOj62nFbLsPudt3IlLKAh5rh1Ng7y3hbeb04gKYWOnbv7FtcdYwTps1lxPFzDfZ3H_M5sNJgCIhyphenhyphenyTWy0hiUfRTBvRjEvI/s1600/8d-back+pleats.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq8gmfSNasJGdGbCP7zDRXm2J5s_5T68x6MJpC2LyiAcj3lJOj62nFbLsPudt3IlLKAh5rh1Ng7y3hbeb04gKYWOnbv7FtcdYwTps1lxPFzDfZ3H_M5sNJgCIhyphenhyphenyTWy0hiUfRTBvRjEvI/s400/8d-back+pleats.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-8-shoulder-pads.html">Tutorial, part 8 - Shoulder Pads</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-10-yoke-facings-to-lining.html">Tutorial, part 10 - Yoke Facings to Lining</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-84113614394274177712015-05-19T08:57:00.003-07:002017-10-14T17:48:13.336-07:00Tutorial, part 8 - Shoulder Pads<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkYFNyUCtNuH_h7YGX6YEhO8q8vrgh5lUvAB7HuOWotVCQPMSlNpq6HduemWjV4MM8uJe0rL5BZqXtpDuycRGrv9s1gbC-_nLKwWqGXpfo8-LL6gPaOZ-OaQfJlZWNeifFWQyPGmO3Frg/s1600/18-shoulder+pads.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkYFNyUCtNuH_h7YGX6YEhO8q8vrgh5lUvAB7HuOWotVCQPMSlNpq6HduemWjV4MM8uJe0rL5BZqXtpDuycRGrv9s1gbC-_nLKwWqGXpfo8-LL6gPaOZ-OaQfJlZWNeifFWQyPGmO3Frg/s320/18-shoulder+pads.JPG" width="222" /></a>The necessary loft of the shoulder pads will depend on the wearer's physique (as will the precise angle of the shoulder seam, for that matter); most non-raglan shoulder pads will work nicely, though, like these:</div>
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Place the shoulder pad inside the jacket so that the pad's long edge is flush with the jacket's armscye seam, and the pad's seam (if it has one) is flush with the jacket's shoulder seam. </div>
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Hand-stitch the pad securely in place to the yoke seam allowances, being careful not to stitch all the way through to the outside of the garment. </div>
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Repeat for the other side. </div>
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TIP: We recommend securing the shoulder pad to the jacket in only two places: the centermost and outermost portions of the shoulder pad along the shoulder seam. This will mimic the effect of the snaps used on the screen-used jumpsuits and prevent any unsightly puckering along the armscye caused by slightly misplaced or poorly sewn pads.<br />
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-7-close-sides.html">Tutorial, part 7 - Close Sides</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-9-lining-assembly.html">Tutorial, part 9 - Lining Assembly</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-10140754338575333032015-05-19T08:55:00.001-07:002016-05-21T22:46:41.400-07:00Tutorial, part 7 - Close Sides<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sew the jacket sides closed in one continuous stitch, from the bottom of the jacket body to the bottom of the sleeve, matching edges and seam lines, right sides together.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM8Ci0IUNTVA6-SawN2uFONrb5Cbx2O9d9-ij8UB_lvI0NHVvyMeyHZYhnBoa6TG4Kk3LHX3B0B2YaloVs65HqM6-OiSv0DcL0qhGNKvGUVSgwPCjiG7i9i_1Hs6i96q0TTlKy68zb9LE/s1600/7a-close+sides.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM8Ci0IUNTVA6-SawN2uFONrb5Cbx2O9d9-ij8UB_lvI0NHVvyMeyHZYhnBoa6TG4Kk3LHX3B0B2YaloVs65HqM6-OiSv0DcL0qhGNKvGUVSgwPCjiG7i9i_1Hs6i96q0TTlKy68zb9LE/s400/7a-close+sides.JPG" width="378" /></a></div>
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Press seam allowances open. </div>
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Repeat for the other side. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoGByQQMRjczlK4izXtfKnx2fCKg7z-gjRgJqymVyIWayo7EhrgyCNkmjgdE-h2_GQA5NFZFn3W_bzszJfYUFHlFiMyfZ7Yo0cuVVCm7QiRR8rDCPTnf91HyvdaYR0DgfQgAG0-3c_Isk/s1600/7b-jacket+body.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoGByQQMRjczlK4izXtfKnx2fCKg7z-gjRgJqymVyIWayo7EhrgyCNkmjgdE-h2_GQA5NFZFn3W_bzszJfYUFHlFiMyfZ7Yo0cuVVCm7QiRR8rDCPTnf91HyvdaYR0DgfQgAG0-3c_Isk/s400/7b-jacket+body.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Fold the sleeve hem allowance upward (the "default" hem allowance on the pattern is 2"), press, and hand sew the seam allowance to the sleeve. </div>
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Repeat for the other side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT0PnA49b0ifQdBqeir2fSFzochNCutt0OpHQoxQLD54ZAhxC6wz9TCp0sRA5iRifMb6M0cUw5F4kaU1LwvSL8aF8xIclObP3xjBid85ye9zqfHNcLGjrdgsI-AFs82PoLwmgO4TPH90w/s1600/7c-sleeve+hemmed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT0PnA49b0ifQdBqeir2fSFzochNCutt0OpHQoxQLD54ZAhxC6wz9TCp0sRA5iRifMb6M0cUw5F4kaU1LwvSL8aF8xIclObP3xjBid85ye9zqfHNcLGjrdgsI-AFs82PoLwmgO4TPH90w/s400/7c-sleeve+hemmed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-6-sleeves-to-body.html">Tutorial, part 6 - Sleeves to Body</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-8-shoulder-pads.html">Tutorial, part 8 - Shoulder Pads</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-43243187408734749382015-05-19T08:51:00.003-07:002016-05-21T22:46:37.606-07:00Tutorial, part 6 - Sleeves to Body<div style="text-align: justify;">
Pin the sleeve assembly to the body, matching shoulder point/sleeve and yoke/body seam lines and appropriately placing the shoulder seam. </div>
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Sew the sleeve to the body, using division-color thread for the shoulder point and black for the sleeve. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2TkXuAitsPy-kDqBLad_m-LQvaqjrkiW9Pcr8w1YV71mdRqbKl3oasfqJHDGVuvOAgPQBa7E8HB2QwWVrWl1h2MeADeVTMbdZoKqFfxC7rImXiu1w-_RQjlKQU9yu7AZxTZUTbyB7egw/s1600/Tailor%2527s+ham.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2TkXuAitsPy-kDqBLad_m-LQvaqjrkiW9Pcr8w1YV71mdRqbKl3oasfqJHDGVuvOAgPQBa7E8HB2QwWVrWl1h2MeADeVTMbdZoKqFfxC7rImXiu1w-_RQjlKQU9yu7AZxTZUTbyB7egw/s200/Tailor%2527s+ham.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Press the armscye seam allowances open using a tailor's ham.</div>
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It's at this point you'll be glad you clipped out the yoke/body seam allowances in the key areas to reduce bulk!</div>
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The top of the action pleat should meet the yoke exactly at the armscye edge of the yoke/body seam line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0BTN7DKCQlr9rGiv7FqWrrA-B863aaCxrKKclYAS77m50df0zyX3zUxF1OHTz4nBvFiZJ3BgokQ1XcdmtkaX1ruoHF6JoDaUowNyjj_St4C2IwWW721C_NVgT3x3Ch5yAa7pR3R0O68c/s1600/6b-sleeve+to+body.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0BTN7DKCQlr9rGiv7FqWrrA-B863aaCxrKKclYAS77m50df0zyX3zUxF1OHTz4nBvFiZJ3BgokQ1XcdmtkaX1ruoHF6JoDaUowNyjj_St4C2IwWW721C_NVgT3x3Ch5yAa7pR3R0O68c/s400/6b-sleeve+to+body.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-5-shoulder-point-to-sleeve.html">Tutorial, part 5 - Shoulder Point onto Sleeve</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-7-close-sides.html">Tutorial, part 7 - Close Sides</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-55463980559495204662015-05-19T08:44:00.001-07:002016-05-21T22:46:34.185-07:00Tutorial, part 5 - Shoulder Point onto Sleeve<div style="text-align: justify;">
Stay-stitch the lower corner at the top of the sleeve (piece H), where the shoulder point will be attached, ⅜" from the edges, and clip the sleeve vertically from the corner to the stay-stitch's pivot point.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnK8EQLV0o3zsiWUgWkRsGTDK6uiG-LwTklLGCHQQm7pQoElRqMAI1-ZMGHgiKhw5LOSGC2WYMk54r4KaQez2FvOpTvjuHIWXMgDYX1ADAMDcDn5KFYwx1hI834kQM8S-nn0R3IjeEFkA/s1600/5a-sleeve+stay+stitched+and+clipped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnK8EQLV0o3zsiWUgWkRsGTDK6uiG-LwTklLGCHQQm7pQoElRqMAI1-ZMGHgiKhw5LOSGC2WYMk54r4KaQez2FvOpTvjuHIWXMgDYX1ADAMDcDn5KFYwx1hI834kQM8S-nn0R3IjeEFkA/s400/5a-sleeve+stay+stitched+and+clipped.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sew the shoulder point (piece G) to the sleeve, right sides facing. </div>
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TIP: With the shoulder point on top, stitch to the pivot line (you can mark this with chalk, a disappearing ink fabric marker, or even a pin), and stop with the needle still in the fabric. Lift the presser foot and rotate the sleeve so that the other sleeve edge is flush with the other edge of the shoulder point, lower the presser foot, and continue stitching.</div>
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Once you've sewn the shoulder point onto the sleeve, it may initially look something like this:</div>
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And you'll feel like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXG791XpNXc74CZwroya0j-0XLXhWOg5TgbMiLJ0hD5Ah4Z8aCxrYTZfrQLhwsSUqzBGY5bR8QvdC3key0R8G_E-qV868dSOgxsprnETa63GbOU8wVlp7xC3laP6mpluLXySOq9XVQcyM/s1600/DS9%252C+5x8+Things+Past+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXG791XpNXc74CZwroya0j-0XLXhWOg5TgbMiLJ0hD5Ah4Z8aCxrYTZfrQLhwsSUqzBGY5bR8QvdC3key0R8G_E-qV868dSOgxsprnETa63GbOU8wVlp7xC3laP6mpluLXySOq9XVQcyM/s400/DS9%252C+5x8+Things+Past+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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But don't worry! A sleeve even this "bad" can be salvaged with very little effort, and we'll show you how.</div>
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Turn the sleeve over so the wrong side faces upward. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC9hbRw1RmXf_qLETM385_HWh8hr88wCF8IJ3syNb63O7vq23fOWHeHgIWmWNyP0TTfES98vZwVWxUdIDBiK_BSqCgsAX3LxeeQwBQl0PP5ilmdcLjHosVHGNrX0oJfDPrpf0UVlzOOis/s1600/5d-underside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC9hbRw1RmXf_qLETM385_HWh8hr88wCF8IJ3syNb63O7vq23fOWHeHgIWmWNyP0TTfES98vZwVWxUdIDBiK_BSqCgsAX3LxeeQwBQl0PP5ilmdcLjHosVHGNrX0oJfDPrpf0UVlzOOis/s400/5d-underside.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Notch the shoulder point seam allowances at the bottom corner. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQYm9QJs7Mmbg_8GeRzw3DWsqo9u3-WUMyd-n7GlJ0UuWCjPNMNAnPcohvhl-9zcayEkAByuX4jeCucc2CRQQzYDDAapZIrmsewG82779RphGvmfVlC4AtCOjHF-RYBym754SVUFF-sy4/s1600/5e-clipped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQYm9QJs7Mmbg_8GeRzw3DWsqo9u3-WUMyd-n7GlJ0UuWCjPNMNAnPcohvhl-9zcayEkAByuX4jeCucc2CRQQzYDDAapZIrmsewG82779RphGvmfVlC4AtCOjHF-RYBym754SVUFF-sy4/s400/5e-clipped.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Steam and press the area directly beneath the corner of the shoulder point. </div>
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If steam doesn't get the job done, you may want to lightly spray a bit of water on the area and press it again. </div>
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See how much better it already looks? </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRHqiQ2L0nTkHAQQU5pUhuOhF8cvPMgJlRgyZaxJ4W66dUZ-xpXsoUqEia3Uwha5iet9ItoBLpEHOuY_vK23UEXo_FiCIsrl3zWYb3wIBJN8wMb96akMXnA8TdEA0GveuQQOm63KH2xC8/s1600/5f-pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRHqiQ2L0nTkHAQQU5pUhuOhF8cvPMgJlRgyZaxJ4W66dUZ-xpXsoUqEia3Uwha5iet9ItoBLpEHOuY_vK23UEXo_FiCIsrl3zWYb3wIBJN8wMb96akMXnA8TdEA0GveuQQOm63KH2xC8/s400/5f-pressed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Press the shoulder point/sleeve seam allowances open.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglJs3dOnrsWbUSM1d-y8S8qS0-CnPJvN2HdZSYWuD6RgTkoB0OMPGWwFhYi-HbjGwQ7rj1qpjfV-pNFRGvFZzZw4AXudGB7oQvfbFOHlzYVzttGoBAlznzudPJ85Uaw8JT86n74yDYyS0/s1600/5g-pressed+open.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglJs3dOnrsWbUSM1d-y8S8qS0-CnPJvN2HdZSYWuD6RgTkoB0OMPGWwFhYi-HbjGwQ7rj1qpjfV-pNFRGvFZzZw4AXudGB7oQvfbFOHlzYVzttGoBAlznzudPJ85Uaw8JT86n74yDYyS0/s400/5g-pressed+open.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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At this point, the sleeve should be looking way, way better: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2GPpkp1_MUvZNsVVicwXTgb892xeCxD7vaWtLD1W1x3YJYJjz3HUf4KGx9DT4ggzRChCCp_x2uf76XemKu0bRee4gjETjCgoMftMenDztTUOgUQgFc92263yaa9YbuOs1CaHlirpins/s1600/5h-no+interfacing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2GPpkp1_MUvZNsVVicwXTgb892xeCxD7vaWtLD1W1x3YJYJjz3HUf4KGx9DT4ggzRChCCp_x2uf76XemKu0bRee4gjETjCgoMftMenDztTUOgUQgFc92263yaa9YbuOs1CaHlirpins/s400/5h-no+interfacing.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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As a finishing touch, we recommend interfacing the area directly beneath the bottom corner of the shoulder point to keep it looking nice, flat, and crisp. </div>
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Cut a small, rectangular piece of lightweight or midweight fusible interfacing (about 2" x 1" or so). </div>
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We recommend cutting it with pinking shears ("pinking" it), thus minimizing the effect of strong, linear imprints on the right side of the garment where the edges of the interfacing are, better obscuring them. </div>
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Make sure the fabric area beneath the shoulder point is wrinkle-free, then fuse the interfacing strip to the wrong side of the sleeve. We recommend placing one of the pinked wedges directly beneath the bottom corner of the shoulder point, as high as possible.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr3GZTMtUu6khGzawCsJ2wbaQYDtYpqmnYKGXlVAPpWVaHwYNNvP7xbmouYrtcvRgiu_htrxyIqcz1kyFW01Noz5XFlBzqmX2kNNKFyBmgWiV6282MrvbegYsnSp_q8MS4eNzSnOnr8pA/s1600/5i-interfacing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr3GZTMtUu6khGzawCsJ2wbaQYDtYpqmnYKGXlVAPpWVaHwYNNvP7xbmouYrtcvRgiu_htrxyIqcz1kyFW01Noz5XFlBzqmX2kNNKFyBmgWiV6282MrvbegYsnSp_q8MS4eNzSnOnr8pA/s400/5i-interfacing.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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This interfacing is a subtle touch, and, theoretically, if you've done a good job with the sleeve thus far, you might not even "need" it; here is a picture of the same sleeve before and after the interfacing was applied.<br />
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<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2GPpkp1_MUvZNsVVicwXTgb892xeCxD7vaWtLD1W1x3YJYJjz3HUf4KGx9DT4ggzRChCCp_x2uf76XemKu0bRee4gjETjCgoMftMenDztTUOgUQgFc92263yaa9YbuOs1CaHlirpins/s1600/5h-no+interfacing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2GPpkp1_MUvZNsVVicwXTgb892xeCxD7vaWtLD1W1x3YJYJjz3HUf4KGx9DT4ggzRChCCp_x2uf76XemKu0bRee4gjETjCgoMftMenDztTUOgUQgFc92263yaa9YbuOs1CaHlirpins/s200/5h-no+interfacing.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Without interfacing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxxAFMy9urXfS4qogZmDN62ves4rvykEumVSXUNNjylqlvl38bHpIq4YzJHb3M7tXkc_j0zWKGSTP1epbRBLNXB_0L4jepS1bOpFqVS4tvWeR1i1U6ROLRV-lL6Doo8RL1m6mYE6HBmyI/s1600/5j-interfaced.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxxAFMy9urXfS4qogZmDN62ves4rvykEumVSXUNNjylqlvl38bHpIq4YzJHb3M7tXkc_j0zWKGSTP1epbRBLNXB_0L4jepS1bOpFqVS4tvWeR1i1U6ROLRV-lL6Doo8RL1m6mYE6HBmyI/s200/5j-interfaced.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interfaced</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
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As you can see, the difference is subtle - especially when the finished garment is worn and moving - but it is a genuine improvement and helps keep it looking nice by preventing future wrinkling beneath the shoulder point. </div>
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Repeat for the other shoulder point/sleeve.<br />
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Here's a sleeve comparison before and after notching the shoulder point seam allowances, thoroughly steaming and pressing the area beneath the shoulder point, pressing the shoulder point/sleeve seam allowances open, and fusing pinked interfacing beneath the shoulder point.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY7yZ8dd9h6tvYuWpRDC2Gi0ByIZUzH5-_jRKkEfuKsMfj8FIYYY6FzFVEuSokMme7A_ua7dTOwWrlzG3YR0oB_JdgZe5GlewAspWXyjniZriUpHIDaXBaev4x9iF34pSbax6gzCDiNWc/s1600/Before+and+after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY7yZ8dd9h6tvYuWpRDC2Gi0ByIZUzH5-_jRKkEfuKsMfj8FIYYY6FzFVEuSokMme7A_ua7dTOwWrlzG3YR0oB_JdgZe5GlewAspWXyjniZriUpHIDaXBaev4x9iF34pSbax6gzCDiNWc/s400/Before+and+after.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-4-front-to-back.html">Tutorial, part 4 - Front to Back</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-6-sleeves-to-body.html">Tutorial, part 6 - Sleeves to Body</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-59844093484518788162015-05-19T08:36:00.001-07:002016-05-21T22:46:30.623-07:00Tutorial, part 4 - Front to BackSew the front assembly to the back assembly at the shoulder. <br />
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Press the shoulder seam open, ideally using a seam roll to avoid making impressions of the seam allowances on the right side of the yoke.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6JWR18D-fmelz4C5sQWC8qiJ2gUfYA7GJu0ZPJP7HYpeHLiILD2Vd59dGB75dyaSNedPupZWBtaYyhdt7vJY9UrYp4fc9MUx-AJAIznnuSAR3uQrH_r55VdmrDmNRurwFOpOGadY-ygQ/s1600/4-front+to+back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6JWR18D-fmelz4C5sQWC8qiJ2gUfYA7GJu0ZPJP7HYpeHLiILD2Vd59dGB75dyaSNedPupZWBtaYyhdt7vJY9UrYp4fc9MUx-AJAIznnuSAR3uQrH_r55VdmrDmNRurwFOpOGadY-ygQ/s400/4-front+to+back.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-3-yoke-to-body.html">Tutorial, part 3 - Yoke to Body</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-5-shoulder-point-to-sleeve.html">Tutorial, part 5 - Shoulder Point onto Sleeve</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-52442301400571542292015-05-19T08:35:00.003-07:002016-05-21T22:46:26.987-07:00Tutorial, part 3 - Yoke to Body<div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVrfATMYpiegaugmed_nxGimDDo-1T-zZNZdiMxVDLEuOVIEue5fpVnILkwcjzrQ60wgUXucnmIcV_Bq_2U82v42fIAeJmTkrpQy2nbczhvNWO-jHwu8jCrPSwJvW9mDuf5bMmrdDtAE4/s1600/3a-front+yoke+to+body.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVrfATMYpiegaugmed_nxGimDDo-1T-zZNZdiMxVDLEuOVIEue5fpVnILkwcjzrQ60wgUXucnmIcV_Bq_2U82v42fIAeJmTkrpQy2nbczhvNWO-jHwu8jCrPSwJvW9mDuf5bMmrdDtAE4/s320/3a-front+yoke+to+body.JPG" width="251" /></a>Sew the front yoke (piece A) to the front body assembly, right sides together, with ¾" seam allowance.<br />
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Press seam allowances open. </div>
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We recommend reducing bulk by clipping out as much of the seam allowances as possible to about ½" from each of the outer ends of the seam line (center front and armscye).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgolEfNa3mFlmw-ogdDJzcMsiiAWqQSkoglACDjI0PclcI5iordY0Nihb95ew_kexU3Fe5xcZfsPScQaTgmqYSYKW-uxb8XZhlbOZOg0xsK3_iHY8Pl14FNccaZ-RLDHfib-BW60KbT6Ao/s1600/3b-c+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgolEfNa3mFlmw-ogdDJzcMsiiAWqQSkoglACDjI0PclcI5iordY0Nihb95ew_kexU3Fe5xcZfsPScQaTgmqYSYKW-uxb8XZhlbOZOg0xsK3_iHY8Pl14FNccaZ-RLDHfib-BW60KbT6Ao/s400/3b-c+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Repeat for the other side.</div>
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Sew the back yoke (piece B) to the back body assembly, right sides together, with ¾" seam allowance. </div>
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Press the seam allowances upward (toward the yoke).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiASjCBf-4wg1SvziVwhyphenhyphenIiBr9wpB7MlkXVghi3j3S0fDjWwa4wzQOIzPW7FqcevWMJYR2p9hUtpxAy6SDcQ5Dm_38-RVueKR2HG-IcmdTON96w93BoFZLHfeTj1VN-r_tTZkQW19egbOI/s1600/3d-back+yoke+to+body.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiASjCBf-4wg1SvziVwhyphenhyphenIiBr9wpB7MlkXVghi3j3S0fDjWwa4wzQOIzPW7FqcevWMJYR2p9hUtpxAy6SDcQ5Dm_38-RVueKR2HG-IcmdTON96w93BoFZLHfeTj1VN-r_tTZkQW19egbOI/s400/3d-back+yoke+to+body.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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We recommend reducing bulk by cutting away the yoke/body seam allowances at the armscyes in the same manner as done previously on the front.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEXIikp74FEkBC3-K0njK4ln7oe8OjXdAC3kuzZ5lB5FRtKN8KHe0dOvSSlyBIzJHBUHT2GGwgrpB3A1IH5rE3-UQwVbfQpMY_803NszoCJ9XrPUDwUrQXBH9bFMGT07ZNbrEL-MQKSTc/s1600/3f-g+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEXIikp74FEkBC3-K0njK4ln7oe8OjXdAC3kuzZ5lB5FRtKN8KHe0dOvSSlyBIzJHBUHT2GGwgrpB3A1IH5rE3-UQwVbfQpMY_803NszoCJ9XrPUDwUrQXBH9bFMGT07ZNbrEL-MQKSTc/s400/3f-g+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Note that, from the right side, the top edges of the action pleats should be ⅜" from the edges of the armscyes:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNRTJG2yw_Am7gt8aBdunpeFkhz41qOlt15XI3t_VMHQrEaS6rG-vAJnHE9CMBYhHNC7_0k8KnCYkkd_jRujgqNI2yG9JDor6VLc_h2QQhR-4JvOzlAAYouLGi04OokbLupaMKZxSio3Q/s1600/3e-action+pleat+placement.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNRTJG2yw_Am7gt8aBdunpeFkhz41qOlt15XI3t_VMHQrEaS6rG-vAJnHE9CMBYhHNC7_0k8KnCYkkd_jRujgqNI2yG9JDor6VLc_h2QQhR-4JvOzlAAYouLGi04OokbLupaMKZxSio3Q/s400/3e-action+pleat+placement.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-2-jacket-body.html">Tutorial, part 2 - Jacket Body</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-4-front-to-back.html">Tutorial, part 4 - Front to Back</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-81313944888979575662015-05-19T08:28:00.001-07:002016-06-05T20:42:35.549-07:00Tutorial, part 2 - Jacket Body<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP-9sAemiKFVYgtV4F57gU2VeI2JKfJCgBOHVxb5ixLG-eA6vEO7whM5y7_6j4L1BbnNo_WNDOPVeBl7CDF4kJLHPdJLd95QyahvP1ZjvuMgV2pz63dVq9kW3xEom6cLPzRmN0taen_jo/s1600/2a-fronts+sewn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP-9sAemiKFVYgtV4F57gU2VeI2JKfJCgBOHVxb5ixLG-eA6vEO7whM5y7_6j4L1BbnNo_WNDOPVeBl7CDF4kJLHPdJLd95QyahvP1ZjvuMgV2pz63dVq9kW3xEom6cLPzRmN0taen_jo/s320/2a-fronts+sewn.JPG" width="242" /></a>Sew the center front (piece C) to the side front (piece D), right sides together, and press seam allowances open.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXpOESoJO0QcgqnqIL321_DFBrg4-qYioIJg9QXqNT_QSMzYH-Hoqq5DyvF0v1nsf_gU_NG_zbuges1OkAUiaoMvU2-PqyJy2BCtsuF0pUwOBo-OKx9FZ3TchdYy74Swd6Ko6Werwy98/s1600/2b-seam+allowances+basted+open.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXpOESoJO0QcgqnqIL321_DFBrg4-qYioIJg9QXqNT_QSMzYH-Hoqq5DyvF0v1nsf_gU_NG_zbuges1OkAUiaoMvU2-PqyJy2BCtsuF0pUwOBo-OKx9FZ3TchdYy74Swd6Ko6Werwy98/s320/2b-seam+allowances+basted+open.JPG" width="320" /></a>Baste or sew the seam allowances open at the top and bottom of the jacket body within the seam allowance.</div>
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Repeat for the other side. </div>
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Sew the side back (piece E) to the center back (piece F), right sides together. </div>
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While sewing the uppermost portion of these two pieces together, the center back will need to be rotated slightly so the edges of the action pleat properly align. </div>
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This is most easily accomplished by sewing the two together with the center back body panel on top, simply moving the excess out of the way when pivoting at the bottom of the action pleat.<br />
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<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0MLgDk4a3QXsm9LDfxH-irRox1bvvlczHyc-aCRZCRdkQTYjVKzC838DIofMikO-eIeSQCI19FgApsLWw7WeauqYJkMJu-YGMSGwZckgygxTO_CGYDqdfiHuaPLspO7Fipwq8tsPgV0/s1600/8a-center+back+to+side+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0MLgDk4a3QXsm9LDfxH-irRox1bvvlczHyc-aCRZCRdkQTYjVKzC838DIofMikO-eIeSQCI19FgApsLWw7WeauqYJkMJu-YGMSGwZckgygxTO_CGYDqdfiHuaPLspO7Fipwq8tsPgV0/s320/8a-center+back+to+side+back.jpg" width="234" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(VOY duty jumpsuit pictured)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheIgyguIWbafxGgH70epzR5MslEQIZYF4uk-OBBlBLQDOSuwcCZrbHoufnF0UiLfe0V3CG7vv00UmAFoLbthoc7cqsAe9QJOWk0MzXevEKxfQLqUYPfulQ_vRo_05YlX0vj9i9-Dkclfg/s1600/2c-backs+sewn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheIgyguIWbafxGgH70epzR5MslEQIZYF4uk-OBBlBLQDOSuwcCZrbHoufnF0UiLfe0V3CG7vv00UmAFoLbthoc7cqsAe9QJOWk0MzXevEKxfQLqUYPfulQ_vRo_05YlX0vj9i9-Dkclfg/s320/2c-backs+sewn.JPG" width="216" /></a></td></tr>
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Clip both layers diagonally at the bottom corner of the action pleat to the pivot line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrOr23MP37xB3FraQFm-601iNackz3KW43Ly-YGxzV6QN9sf-H4tGVmZZ1Jsuq6cYeLvY8ys7yJ3Ji_RlUgIf7Co9hXwTbIR-i5Rno88qUW4byeay9F0pwXcJOAJjbXt_T-N0YWtQDAQY/s1600/2d-backs+clipped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="335" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrOr23MP37xB3FraQFm-601iNackz3KW43Ly-YGxzV6QN9sf-H4tGVmZZ1Jsuq6cYeLvY8ys7yJ3Ji_RlUgIf7Co9hXwTbIR-i5Rno88qUW4byeay9F0pwXcJOAJjbXt_T-N0YWtQDAQY/s400/2d-backs+clipped.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Press the seam allowances open beneath the action pleat. </div>
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Press the action pleat toward the center back along the fold line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWUmadyjfBKbUMNY1JKfX-cnesOobrRAxPX4TjHoyRHuFw9c54xmSYwI-RVEF88gHWqdCqNf7gd6esO9l6Hb3KPdwp8lzjGPUNm7pSsRDisii6z9zRW9ewEg77_WCdRghoWvObwet-mRQ/s1600/2e-back+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWUmadyjfBKbUMNY1JKfX-cnesOobrRAxPX4TjHoyRHuFw9c54xmSYwI-RVEF88gHWqdCqNf7gd6esO9l6Hb3KPdwp8lzjGPUNm7pSsRDisii6z9zRW9ewEg77_WCdRghoWvObwet-mRQ/s400/2e-back+pressed.JPG" width="312" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6oCU2uFyrXIaMAd32wycRcRLo81tDR3EAszP9rnSLyKgfmW0RfyedyLiQK2FwEgmNTgjyrfrAfKp1ja-ynAWZ7GS8xfF7gb9r5gKvDLSm_vm91VFCXckC3NW7hAXiLbgEm-NhNfgSzz0/s1600/2f-action+pleat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6oCU2uFyrXIaMAd32wycRcRLo81tDR3EAszP9rnSLyKgfmW0RfyedyLiQK2FwEgmNTgjyrfrAfKp1ja-ynAWZ7GS8xfF7gb9r5gKvDLSm_vm91VFCXckC3NW7hAXiLbgEm-NhNfgSzz0/s320/2f-action+pleat.JPG" width="248" /></a>The pleat should lie flat when viewed from the right side. </div>
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Also note that the top edges should be flush, and there should be no contortions or puckers. </div>
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If the fabric is "warbly" around the bottom of the action pleat, massage it with a bit of steaming and pressing until it's smooth.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1Eia3ipD0hs0O-nfPb02fidMKiWcC-yobphrQNKDvRkzQi0AIpipKideewH3572hHB9JNxsnI9NjCxFfveQTdbtb7szCcb_wuhIYIMJ_L2vjwSykvbIhSJvuqXgi8df5OA0QX2kFaBs/s1600/2g-action+pleat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1Eia3ipD0hs0O-nfPb02fidMKiWcC-yobphrQNKDvRkzQi0AIpipKideewH3572hHB9JNxsnI9NjCxFfveQTdbtb7szCcb_wuhIYIMJ_L2vjwSykvbIhSJvuqXgi8df5OA0QX2kFaBs/s320/2g-action+pleat.JPG" width="252" /></a>You may go ahead and remove the basting thread if you wish.</div>
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Pin or baste the action pleat closed for now. </div>
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Repeat for the other side. </div>
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Sew the two back halves together along the center back, right sides together. </div>
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Press seam allowances open.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiQ_Rj2CO5035ckd8ZzM3e0faeDAwUx2LBwZiavzFMOO_Teuj_Xzo_cFAqa7pjCLjZXNkOuDanNDq0lckTiz_y-RC-80TXal5DzY6XlloOkPYsqQGgclszkewK9ZZUcit-9kjjxRoyzLY/s1600/2h-backs+together.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiQ_Rj2CO5035ckd8ZzM3e0faeDAwUx2LBwZiavzFMOO_Teuj_Xzo_cFAqa7pjCLjZXNkOuDanNDq0lckTiz_y-RC-80TXal5DzY6XlloOkPYsqQGgclszkewK9ZZUcit-9kjjxRoyzLY/s400/2h-backs+together.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sew the spandex panel to the inside of the jumpsuit alongside the centermost edges of the action pleat, then baste or sew the top of the action pleats and spandex panel to the top of the jacket.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjPwmQAVdeTKpgVcp52nJ1-upBgLSb-Y6cx5nf9wrelhE7fL41J3oDCQUsxyym7mEd8etscB8fVabiZR1XNo2v0kmPLmggTX1oEB1yW8exlWTf7tGyCwNTi69o8d1DEnR5x80Ouldnow/s1600/2i-spandex+panel.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjPwmQAVdeTKpgVcp52nJ1-upBgLSb-Y6cx5nf9wrelhE7fL41J3oDCQUsxyym7mEd8etscB8fVabiZR1XNo2v0kmPLmggTX1oEB1yW8exlWTf7tGyCwNTi69o8d1DEnR5x80Ouldnow/s400/2i-spandex+panel.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjrp3Vfo8_A8ZABk7uKe9SazHfZGRd6YSFrwCDQfYrCXw-XG11sE9EDLgbW09RG8Ti94VJNhD_hegmCRdwgVMwMAW6xF8dXzzVGm-28IqRXgMKfe7Mi8pU6soKV07n7ifRV7IdsaIImhY/s1600/2j-spandex+panel+attached+and+basted.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjrp3Vfo8_A8ZABk7uKe9SazHfZGRd6YSFrwCDQfYrCXw-XG11sE9EDLgbW09RG8Ti94VJNhD_hegmCRdwgVMwMAW6xF8dXzzVGm-28IqRXgMKfe7Mi8pU6soKV07n7ifRV7IdsaIImhY/s400/2j-spandex+panel+attached+and+basted.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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We recommend basting several times: ¼" from top, ½" from top, and ¾" from top. This is to keep the spandex from stretching as much, both during this basting/sewing and when attaching the yoke later. </div>
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We also recommend reinforcing the stitch over each action pleat several times.</div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-1-pattern-pieces.html">Tutorial, part 1 - Pattern Pieces</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-3-yoke-to-body.html">Tutorial, part 3 - Yoke to Body</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-12067398243270311332015-05-19T08:17:00.006-07:002016-05-21T22:46:19.304-07:00Tutorial, part 1 - Pattern Pieces<div style="text-align: justify;">
For all of the jacket body (and hem facing) pieces, cut two of your body fabric of choice (wool gabardine or cotton twill) and two of your underlining fabric of choice (we recommend muslin), so that each shell piece has an exact muslin counterpart.</div>
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(Yes, this doubles the number of pieces to cut, iron, and keep up with, but it will be well worth it; the interfacing fabric gives the garment more body, weight, dimension, and changes its drape ever-so-slightly.)</div>
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Iron all the pieces, then pair each body piece with its corresponding underlining.</div>
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Serge all of the body pieces to their underlining mates.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs-1H3oCJaWngEoqR8yqrkVU4cz4KHmOl2ol02THH3R5r8fwbh7dqURAv2oGSD-5haM98zRlQcydsAdEjV924iFN8bWGIJMlSMSPI3Oi2jRgwMSTQ7LzrTuKY0kKZ53mK_nNyBCEuMAcU/s1600/1b-pattern+pieces+serged.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs-1H3oCJaWngEoqR8yqrkVU4cz4KHmOl2ol02THH3R5r8fwbh7dqURAv2oGSD-5haM98zRlQcydsAdEjV924iFN8bWGIJMlSMSPI3Oi2jRgwMSTQ7LzrTuKY0kKZ53mK_nNyBCEuMAcU/s400/1b-pattern+pieces+serged.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you don't have a serger (and/or one is not reasonably available), you can also baste, stitch, or zig-zag stitch the two pieces together within the seam allowance; it's not ideal but it's something, at least! </div>
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Here, you can compare a body panel zig-zag stitched to its underlining mate to one serged to it:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqELxieEYUly4UJR-pXsepQvhJ3Fvq5Ii8JB-1VZhApzvcvcQo4raagX3CO2El3aP8GyO6fKzUsfAIXN4b0skt0sOSMJp1uHRN-TwNE0hoOcC9Dl2G73UvevB9NW5qE4p19uawTH2Ip8/s1600/70a-serger+zigzag+comparison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqELxieEYUly4UJR-pXsepQvhJ3Fvq5Ii8JB-1VZhApzvcvcQo4raagX3CO2El3aP8GyO6fKzUsfAIXN4b0skt0sOSMJp1uHRN-TwNE0hoOcC9Dl2G73UvevB9NW5qE4p19uawTH2Ip8/s400/70a-serger+zigzag+comparison.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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We recommend lightly marking the action pleat fold line on the center back (piece F) on the wrong side of the garment and/or with white (or otherwise contrasting) basting thread.<br />
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<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_th4zukolGwOkAY36jUxjDqT6pmWZQdYrEHkh63GGPuBbZR7M72ZX4-j_N9-CqMZX8wwSrDoJTp1Th1GctwCpwbKd-pYVlbntc6i0WpgwDcd0kaatZgtvhjGuePdLGomhNiz2WO036Fs/s1600/1d-fold+line+basted.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_th4zukolGwOkAY36jUxjDqT6pmWZQdYrEHkh63GGPuBbZR7M72ZX4-j_N9-CqMZX8wwSrDoJTp1Th1GctwCpwbKd-pYVlbntc6i0WpgwDcd0kaatZgtvhjGuePdLGomhNiz2WO036Fs/s320/1d-fold+line+basted.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrong side</td></tr>
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<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHjl1JxXKwuaKI5q0BWxMntR7MRnuP2uL2qc7gI1G13wm5UpovrBqGQVe7IU0DRbDsTAbguzUUQB8x7NxzfWB1lxile8rq1VGVlfk5XYyvr6rQ7uYY49Y-_3p7OxKLlcCH1kJefVHKHqY/s1600/1c-fold+line+basted.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHjl1JxXKwuaKI5q0BWxMntR7MRnuP2uL2qc7gI1G13wm5UpovrBqGQVe7IU0DRbDsTAbguzUUQB8x7NxzfWB1lxile8rq1VGVlfk5XYyvr6rQ7uYY49Y-_3p7OxKLlcCH1kJefVHKHqY/s320/1c-fold+line+basted.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right side</td></tr>
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TIP: the fold line is 2 ⅜" from the edge of the piece, so rather than attempting to freehand mark it or use a tracing wheel, you may wish to just use a see-through quilting ruler and draw a line with the hard edge of the ruler as a guide.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPKrIaUP6aXBgVKJx2wbnyX_gbKOb-G1HtR_OZtjcDN_lN78uEExfFfyJEdGaTJpXh0sKPbW_b3PY0fn8sU3GT0ggK2hjVgiqrcsG3JVgqq6xnQLWDSsTRPBK5mSsCKczEjzBjWdcP_xs/s1600/Ruler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPKrIaUP6aXBgVKJx2wbnyX_gbKOb-G1HtR_OZtjcDN_lN78uEExfFfyJEdGaTJpXh0sKPbW_b3PY0fn8sU3GT0ggK2hjVgiqrcsG3JVgqq6xnQLWDSsTRPBK5mSsCKczEjzBjWdcP_xs/s320/Ruler.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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(That's what we did; note that in the pictures above line extends past the bottom of the action pleat ... it doesn't really matter. Nobody but you will see the line, and the basting thread will be removed later.)<br />
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Fuse your interfacing to the front yokes (piece A) and back yoke (B). </div>
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Serge all edges of your yokes and yoke facings except the neckline; it will get sewn in and clipped later. </div>
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<i>NOTE: We recommend serging both the yoke and yoke facing using division-color serger threads, or at least something in a similar color range (i.e. overlock a gold yoke with gold thread). We only used black thread on our tutorial jacket because <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-1-yoke.html" target="_blank">the original jumpsuits apparently did</a></b>, but the only advantage we see to this is you save a bit of time by not having to change your serger threads during the construction process.</i><br />
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/fabric-notes-and-substitute-material.html">Fabric Notes and "Substitute" Material Options</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-2-jacket-body.html">Tutorial, part 2 - Jacket Body</a></b></div>
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Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-64776111715915332872015-05-19T08:13:00.000-07:002016-05-21T22:45:53.416-07:00Fabric Notes and "Substitute" Material Options<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<b>FABRIC NOTES:</b></div>
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Black wool gabardine (superfine or regular) is not difficult to find, but the division colors are a bit trickier, and unfortunately, we know of no source that sells wool gabardine in screen-accurate colors. </div>
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Some higher-end fabric shops do sell wool gabardine in multiple colors, including ones that might work well to the untrained eye (wine, biking red, teal, turquoise, gold, golden yellow, etc.). </div>
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Alternatively - or, perhaps, ideally - one can purchase white, "natural," or undyed wool gabardine and then dye it to match a screen-used uniform and/or swatch, although even that is subjective and, as demonstrated in our jumpsuit analysis, the exact colors varied quite a bit over the years, anyway (see our <b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/misc-observations-and-errors-part-2.html">VOY duty jumpsuit analysis</a></b>). </div>
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<b>"SUBSTITUTE" MATERIAL RECOMMENDATIONS/ALTERNATIVES</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihbJ8_gk9g-qM8nCqTM9gY0SwTNc6_9yiD2MMBSamJUeks3P9rYKriLyLhfiL2hnHPMlLiQyQOD1GdK9-y8Jb1GiHcq-6bQrxcSw-4KUfvZY_U1zwG_P31vDQB8KvQTHaIkSUHwl55W3_s/s1600/Sisko+price+too+high.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihbJ8_gk9g-qM8nCqTM9gY0SwTNc6_9yiD2MMBSamJUeks3P9rYKriLyLhfiL2hnHPMlLiQyQOD1GdK9-y8Jb1GiHcq-6bQrxcSw-4KUfvZY_U1zwG_P31vDQB8KvQTHaIkSUHwl55W3_s/s1600/Sisko+price+too+high.jpg" /></a>We're also aware of "vegan" sensibilities and the sometimes prohibitively expensive nature of screen-accurate materials. They may look make for a far more impressive, screen-accurate replica, but superfine wool gabardine isn't cheap! Tack on the cost of a screen-used uniform or swatch, then dyeing or buying custom-dyed materials, and expenses can add up quickly. </div>
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Fortunately, cotton twill is an inexpensive and easy-to-find substitute for wool gabardine. Although it doesn't drape, press, or ease as well, and it's more prone to wrinkling, it is more commonly available at retail fabric stores and usually costs substantially less than wool gabardine (especially superfine wool gabardine). </div>
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Poly/cotton blend twill is also an option, although we recommend 100% cotton more than a poly/cotton blend, especially since the two fabrics usually hang out in the same price range. </div>
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There are multiple decent off-the-shelf "substitute" options for the division colors.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4q5U7DWTzddRVKKaOAGSofROjn4a_HSAamuDNC-lOEDjXApWlgJA0IfB2YvP3csormMs8AAyTvdt58Nwwv2L534x7NkIkPrjiL-NW35WJpMimnqYONbNOgMPzAbPhi0woBoSSarScu8o/s1600/JoAnn+biking+red.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4q5U7DWTzddRVKKaOAGSofROjn4a_HSAamuDNC-lOEDjXApWlgJA0IfB2YvP3csormMs8AAyTvdt58Nwwv2L534x7NkIkPrjiL-NW35WJpMimnqYONbNOgMPzAbPhi0woBoSSarScu8o/s320/JoAnn+biking+red.jpg" width="320" /></a>For command, "biking red wrinklease" from JoAnn is a good option:<br />
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The biking red wrinklease pictured above, in combination with black cotton twill, are what we used for the uniform jacket in this tutorial. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4dUTvcpf_Z0vswAfaWbvjTMg7-a9uiRCU4ifjWIIx9eCF8N8OSkAbXiS4G6ctQm5ua4DtKeCdpgbpIeODtsX8TBO3XHr1oTLtHyDLesRonWN-foQxW3Z3UD1PyzvKj8YMbmarb9uOMac/s1600/smiling+sheep.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4dUTvcpf_Z0vswAfaWbvjTMg7-a9uiRCU4ifjWIIx9eCF8N8OSkAbXiS4G6ctQm5ua4DtKeCdpgbpIeODtsX8TBO3XHr1oTLtHyDLesRonWN-foQxW3Z3UD1PyzvKj8YMbmarb9uOMac/s320/smiling+sheep.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following uniform constructed for this tutorial was 100% cotton and 100% polyester.<br />
No animals were harmed in the making of this tutorial. </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOMgrJ1A1ZzVF62EDqNg1OkVwSK_BX1WL6rPAFd15T-DiyrjKQ2O8yUOqk1KdvkSshWkk3i6uFXTwJ4lAL70WuplM33hqRxGLiRvptHiJaDFpIa5XTL6F1SErh_idpvsKA2VzI4orHexQ/s1600/Hancock+zinfandel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOMgrJ1A1ZzVF62EDqNg1OkVwSK_BX1WL6rPAFd15T-DiyrjKQ2O8yUOqk1KdvkSshWkk3i6uFXTwJ4lAL70WuplM33hqRxGLiRvptHiJaDFpIa5XTL6F1SErh_idpvsKA2VzI4orHexQ/s320/Hancock+zinfandel.jpg" width="279" /></a>Another good option for command is Hancock's "zinfandel" twill:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZC-g-XpPHrnuH3vI2PnmiUKAqf6V9P26M53vNOSUFgn6lufR5pNhUeqAknaYLSH4LFrJ0LY7Hnsa7A5bMSrgvt0eNZ2TDYkAbKVjmeIbAYdLW9y5laQ2iJt19IptArnUB_7Zx18c4zk/s1600/Hancock+du+pont.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZC-g-XpPHrnuH3vI2PnmiUKAqf6V9P26M53vNOSUFgn6lufR5pNhUeqAknaYLSH4LFrJ0LY7Hnsa7A5bMSrgvt0eNZ2TDYkAbKVjmeIbAYdLW9y5laQ2iJt19IptArnUB_7Zx18c4zk/s320/Hancock+du+pont.jpg" width="312" /></a></div>
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As mentioned previously, we don't recommend poly/cotton blends, but Hancock's "du pont" twill could work in a pinch:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixj2C69fzx0go15j9HAkhQF5_-vsDArJR4X5j0JNiim0H0lTxaNU1C-asAjOZvpg7MGmfWeHDgAFFKl1-gB0bCnolUTpDK0-ZmkdO86TRBk_J-yNo_9tVQ0wMW6TpRq2MXDTC9zx7q5_A/s1600/Hancock+gold.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixj2C69fzx0go15j9HAkhQF5_-vsDArJR4X5j0JNiim0H0lTxaNU1C-asAjOZvpg7MGmfWeHDgAFFKl1-gB0bCnolUTpDK0-ZmkdO86TRBk_J-yNo_9tVQ0wMW6TpRq2MXDTC9zx7q5_A/s320/Hancock+gold.jpg" width="320" /></a>For tactical/security, Hancock Fabrics has a passable gold cotton twill, although it is a little on the "loud" side:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYYE33gjwC5wuVuVCPDFNAa0cLlXsR5e6MtUDniluKcTMpbNVfFrOiunQP-Awb-Xk5HXXbLoSn96nx5BngFvxPr9yLLMMsQoDY48pvv9nGW3x9B48RI3jy6ytP3lZTkmNCnA1nwkTaHSM/s1600/JoAnn+turquoise+denim.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYYE33gjwC5wuVuVCPDFNAa0cLlXsR5e6MtUDniluKcTMpbNVfFrOiunQP-Awb-Xk5HXXbLoSn96nx5BngFvxPr9yLLMMsQoDY48pvv9nGW3x9B48RI3jy6ytP3lZTkmNCnA1nwkTaHSM/s320/JoAnn+turquoise+denim.jpg" width="281" /></a></div>
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Denim is a less than ideal substitute, but at least it's in the same family of woven fabrics (gabardines, twills, and denims). We recommend using the cotton twill if possible, but, like with the poly/cotton blends, JoAnn's "turquoise denim" could work for the late VOY medical/sciences yoke.</div>
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At this point, you should have your materials gathered and familiarized yourself with this garment's construction. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7DVXLn8aSPMwol2-4Nd9xdtigE5BP2VJlEa7Jcr8tjjhXC55k1tM43N4t_YEg2GjaWj_nXkBYAGDqGElh_Bfaus2hfvLbTkIohqEx-7CwKsioY6g1tiTbV7LnPUdawCqObTNSlawwko0/s1600/Joker+here+we+go+GIF.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="129" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7DVXLn8aSPMwol2-4Nd9xdtigE5BP2VJlEa7Jcr8tjjhXC55k1tM43N4t_YEg2GjaWj_nXkBYAGDqGElh_Bfaus2hfvLbTkIohqEx-7CwKsioY6g1tiTbV7LnPUdawCqObTNSlawwko0/s320/Joker+here+we+go+GIF.gif" width="320" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/required-materials-supplies-notions-etc.html">Required Materials, Supplies, Notions, etc.</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/tutorial-part-1-pattern-pieces.html">Tutorial, part 1 - Pattern Pieces</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-36723057730081570612015-05-18T19:53:00.004-07:002016-05-21T22:45:49.498-07:00Required Materials, Supplies, Notions, etc.<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>FABRIC:</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
* Black wool gabardine = 2 yards</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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* Division color wool gabardine = ¾ yard</div>
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* Underlining fabric = 2 yards</div>
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* Fusible midweight interfacing = ¾ yard</div>
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* Lining = 2 yards</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
* Black spandex = ½ yard</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<b>ACCESSORIES, SUPPLIES, NOTIONS, etc.: </b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
* 1 spool of black thread</div>
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* 1 spool of division-color thread</div>
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* 1 pair of shoulder pads</div>
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* 1 yard of 2" elastic</div>
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* 1 communicator of your choice</div>
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Also, a serger is HIGHLY recommended; it will not only make your workflow easier and sewing room cleaner (fewer threads, frays, etc. all over the place), but it will also prolong the life of the garment itself by keeping the pattern pieces and seams in better condition.<br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/fabric-notes-and-substitute-material.html">Fabric Notes and "Substitute" Material Options</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-38802448667773105472015-05-18T19:52:00.001-07:002016-05-21T22:45:45.815-07:00Misc. Observations, part 2<div style="text-align: justify;">
Lastly, this <i>should</i> go without saying, but just in case, the VOY duty jacket we've been referencing was not the maternity jacket Ensign Wildman wore during humanity's longest pregnancy ever in <i>Voyager</i>'s second season :</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin80yfUFoWWPQ-_di9l3-j3T9Hbez5zENlESS_BX85vf2yQ_km1jTb8GJC6GVEtCd8XMUa0L_rtlh93_MvUm3IWTvxAVjq2QCBURdG0gpm3n_b_jahYYV9fJr2SJ28AUuHCujTDq8JlDQ/s1600/VOY,+2x17+Dreadnaught+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin80yfUFoWWPQ-_di9l3-j3T9Hbez5zENlESS_BX85vf2yQ_km1jTb8GJC6GVEtCd8XMUa0L_rtlh93_MvUm3IWTvxAVjq2QCBURdG0gpm3n_b_jahYYV9fJr2SJ28AUuHCujTDq8JlDQ/s400/VOY,+2x17+Dreadnaught+1.jpg" width="397" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 2x17 "Dreadnaught"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
Nor was the VOY duty jacket we've been referencing the same as the "I'm not pregnant!" jacket that B'Elanna inexplicably began wearing over her duty jumpsuit during the second half of <i>Voyager</i>'s fourth season (and just as mysteriously stopped wearing after that):<br />
<br /></div>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiTI2tZ6ohqOdrmcOIRtYJ2KqtMkbaK5NY2x6xqRuR6msZrDliL9vxK7nBuwQ7uqfCg30asYGEEWmIYb7RO1VyjF3Qy3Q0E19HMzosCEsASumtU-CCnOIyEO2RAoUdjzTgWQxYNPt7oCE/s1600/VOY,+4x13+Waking+Moments+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiTI2tZ6ohqOdrmcOIRtYJ2KqtMkbaK5NY2x6xqRuR6msZrDliL9vxK7nBuwQ7uqfCg30asYGEEWmIYb7RO1VyjF3Qy3Q0E19HMzosCEsASumtU-CCnOIyEO2RAoUdjzTgWQxYNPt7oCE/s200/VOY,+4x13+Waking+Moments+1.jpg" width="152" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 4x13 <br />
"Waking Moments"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXFpLqbH4HRdxa_BGk-1oXQJNl77TXfWwJgeOnjGeXY6sSOLKrme-gQ04CfILYyfKgNYCjnQfG_c2_xtGju8aJtRH10qP2oQtr8Dx_pN1YNgZWnuJBRnwQ_a_pv0_wp0pyQ4e_qXWtyBc/s1600/VOY,+4x14+Message+Bottle+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXFpLqbH4HRdxa_BGk-1oXQJNl77TXfWwJgeOnjGeXY6sSOLKrme-gQ04CfILYyfKgNYCjnQfG_c2_xtGju8aJtRH10qP2oQtr8Dx_pN1YNgZWnuJBRnwQ_a_pv0_wp0pyQ4e_qXWtyBc/s200/VOY,+4x14+Message+Bottle+1.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 4x14<br />
"Message in a Bottle"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqap2VMGH55LehGZack7ODNZK9wkFNaKn7G6knFnzY2l7wgZsMoylQr5oi652PW7228e9z3PVak3eNTy6DSWSdZ0amnmxz9Imui-joN-WhwSQkUXwpakcAdsSDdz8rzV3oTiM7Kmwqbj8/s1600/VOY,+4x15+Hunters+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqap2VMGH55LehGZack7ODNZK9wkFNaKn7G6knFnzY2l7wgZsMoylQr5oi652PW7228e9z3PVak3eNTy6DSWSdZ0amnmxz9Imui-joN-WhwSQkUXwpakcAdsSDdz8rzV3oTiM7Kmwqbj8/s200/VOY,+4x15+Hunters+1.jpg" width="183" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 4x15 "Hunters"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsEPS_JFe4gk3UJRqroHBtlNr8FhQclM4tclPrGqF51YtzGU0Xt_c_iwSq04WsbhpMMxhd81ZYPAyZcwov9bny8V4ndpqLM3dZSHGpO5rFwzexhBvaPJRjXc15VL52qtI8wJI8yi1t2Ig/s1600/VOY,+4x16+Prey+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsEPS_JFe4gk3UJRqroHBtlNr8FhQclM4tclPrGqF51YtzGU0Xt_c_iwSq04WsbhpMMxhd81ZYPAyZcwov9bny8V4ndpqLM3dZSHGpO5rFwzexhBvaPJRjXc15VL52qtI8wJI8yi1t2Ig/s200/VOY,+4x16+Prey+1.jpg" width="143" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 4x16 "Prey"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmEeTRYMFCTLNpCccWM_-mfEgUmNET6VaPRBVIWrKlIzlMS1y-lxkhuqr4veyGGsWb_QhEXSLtM4Yps4cxtfNnnMRV6zvZqQLaFH04CD71nKApntCDtvhebXa9-UZslzTBnRlQq8voqEY/s1600/VOY,+4x17+Retrospect.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmEeTRYMFCTLNpCccWM_-mfEgUmNET6VaPRBVIWrKlIzlMS1y-lxkhuqr4veyGGsWb_QhEXSLtM4Yps4cxtfNnnMRV6zvZqQLaFH04CD71nKApntCDtvhebXa9-UZslzTBnRlQq8voqEY/s200/VOY,+4x17+Retrospect.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 4x17 "Retrospect"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhirq19UGxKOfXM98CEqasuxPRcnRfAcVHHXGK6o2Yu9vyMAY_M8qseNvwsDjtFB0yzbtVVC8bg4pPrdGnQCcz0CAd0u6QeEScaEdgpGHZS5g0XFp8woxzMmTYlz8Ok77nT_aGzFEYsX50/s1600/VOY,+4x20+Vis+a+Vis+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhirq19UGxKOfXM98CEqasuxPRcnRfAcVHHXGK6o2Yu9vyMAY_M8qseNvwsDjtFB0yzbtVVC8bg4pPrdGnQCcz0CAd0u6QeEScaEdgpGHZS5g0XFp8woxzMmTYlz8Ok77nT_aGzFEYsX50/s200/VOY,+4x20+Vis+a+Vis+1.jpg" width="175" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 4x20 "Vis à Vis"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jJwsj-vmbTVq_n-7PMA66L4YWr3WDqmZRP_uFH8ivUQZ-n-KEZjiqOxxcZq6AB2WQJklNTfjIxy8sm0i62D5wm4tvm3Ig3b1hqHj__VsX5mbhKQgXNJMZyarIKnnfQ4e0uCVSvee2zA/s1600/VOY,+4x21+Omega+Directive+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jJwsj-vmbTVq_n-7PMA66L4YWr3WDqmZRP_uFH8ivUQZ-n-KEZjiqOxxcZq6AB2WQJklNTfjIxy8sm0i62D5wm4tvm3Ig3b1hqHj__VsX5mbhKQgXNJMZyarIKnnfQ4e0uCVSvee2zA/s200/VOY,+4x21+Omega+Directive+1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 4x21<br />
"The Omega Directive"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdrn0ODtW361OV9Ga8t6L-77_Er_9AzAfTDXIzjRtllt3qyFw9525KV-UvsfQRdMQvQHw4zcjB6FFRqUjpGD_4dPZzH1FpxJ3xZKJmi9-Wi_mKc_Jl6jvMiz7EIjy6n00zqm3TUy27Cr4/s1600/VOY,+4x24+Demon+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdrn0ODtW361OV9Ga8t6L-77_Er_9AzAfTDXIzjRtllt3qyFw9525KV-UvsfQRdMQvQHw4zcjB6FFRqUjpGD_4dPZzH1FpxJ3xZKJmi9-Wi_mKc_Jl6jvMiz7EIjy6n00zqm3TUy27Cr4/s200/VOY,+4x24+Demon+1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 4x24 "Demon"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9pBAWFaoLIEc7hGmmmH1i6__3ALUceU2GVtFbZcyRFa75G-tgjg3E5NCGcQFlDP6rLZXJ7d03u14AusqF6QIkUYEKhMuzcZSY5BvR-3PT-mvYB-WTOeO0tAcDNIxZSNRCZfeEMrDvvjc/s1600/VOY,+4x25+One+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9pBAWFaoLIEc7hGmmmH1i6__3ALUceU2GVtFbZcyRFa75G-tgjg3E5NCGcQFlDP6rLZXJ7d03u14AusqF6QIkUYEKhMuzcZSY5BvR-3PT-mvYB-WTOeO0tAcDNIxZSNRCZfeEMrDvvjc/s200/VOY,+4x25+One+1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 4x25 "One"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Oddly, she didn't wear this jacket during the second half of <i>Voyager</i>'s seventh season, when her character actually WAS pregnant!<br />
<br /></div>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRk2Hdjx7BjDYvd5cZo-r5hms2EicuPD95dla5abt_vFhZpX5vC36tGauvBpHYRGfqu_TG5dBzJdC3Fo1Pq98r9XITddk05Ib63kXPmeNkngYqDyMcbeRPEvBZGvKjrJ0hn25k-FvtU-U/s1600/VOY,+7x14+Prophecy+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRk2Hdjx7BjDYvd5cZo-r5hms2EicuPD95dla5abt_vFhZpX5vC36tGauvBpHYRGfqu_TG5dBzJdC3Fo1Pq98r9XITddk05Ib63kXPmeNkngYqDyMcbeRPEvBZGvKjrJ0hn25k-FvtU-U/s320/VOY,+7x14+Prophecy+1.jpg" width="151" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 7x14 "Prophecy"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVi1wlEqm0voLjGgASmhoK26pjI8VNl_XXPaegmrgrmotOD8eyjNj6w6-HiaM0237xHavCBl8T48FFtGKeZO11qS9NHbQVm5246bmnt32sGUK7nkoyXY9UTuUSjWzSYWeI-eZxCdnngvM/s1600/VOY,+7x18+Human+Error+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVi1wlEqm0voLjGgASmhoK26pjI8VNl_XXPaegmrgrmotOD8eyjNj6w6-HiaM0237xHavCBl8T48FFtGKeZO11qS9NHbQVm5246bmnt32sGUK7nkoyXY9UTuUSjWzSYWeI-eZxCdnngvM/s320/VOY,+7x18+Human+Error+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 7x18 "Human Error"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJquyM91E5fK98xsv0pTS5WbEq6mGU94Cb7mEuXaU-nqcqMjlrXLl7uioRu-JeBUV8GCEeaKdj0oiM4wPSfnazHpFD7FXdBHjbG_qPjJxtb-nNvN6mtuM01fsZXozBfgsibBiuMAGAflk/s1600/VOY,+7x20+Author+Author+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJquyM91E5fK98xsv0pTS5WbEq6mGU94Cb7mEuXaU-nqcqMjlrXLl7uioRu-JeBUV8GCEeaKdj0oiM4wPSfnazHpFD7FXdBHjbG_qPjJxtb-nNvN6mtuM01fsZXozBfgsibBiuMAGAflk/s320/VOY,+7x20+Author+Author+1.jpg" width="185" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 7x20 "Author, Author"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8YXbHDt7SZ7bMiTEV-Ucg2PM6IYMGyF1y-CJlLoU0E_2hHXVa8FxxSw7vVoEs-LQGTMg6DTNPasCreCNB4TMmZWAIGbSuxNW7RhGrmRgw2ZAX3UIquutddehu_pKnUlVIe-bgbuaKSMg/s1600/VOY,+7x21+Friendship+One+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8YXbHDt7SZ7bMiTEV-Ucg2PM6IYMGyF1y-CJlLoU0E_2hHXVa8FxxSw7vVoEs-LQGTMg6DTNPasCreCNB4TMmZWAIGbSuxNW7RhGrmRgw2ZAX3UIquutddehu_pKnUlVIe-bgbuaKSMg/s320/VOY,+7x21+Friendship+One+1.jpg" width="229" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 7x21 "Friendship One"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
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She did get a maternity jacket (a la Ensign Wildman) the last few episodes, though:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwOODW4l4iUbbHiQbrvPFVL4E5YJ2wAZ8JanNjxrGT4XKdJE1JFB1lcnCgGos6kPN6Uulqr7BoLfLgRKMr9IfmkpBsH_pGYbEr6Le2bjoUJihUQQosk4LlhWS1yAmU4MoxutQq41sgRJw/s1600/VOY,+7x22+Natural+Law.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwOODW4l4iUbbHiQbrvPFVL4E5YJ2wAZ8JanNjxrGT4XKdJE1JFB1lcnCgGos6kPN6Uulqr7BoLfLgRKMr9IfmkpBsH_pGYbEr6Le2bjoUJihUQQosk4LlhWS1yAmU4MoxutQq41sgRJw/s320/VOY,+7x22+Natural+Law.JPG" width="142" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 7x22 "Natural Law"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsFBoDvtq5xtu3swsfDVVmKMXPkbVS1hofq0RkvM2Yl7oEV2KIKGt266w08KY7zq1awsd3RHOrHzuyB_QlFnAVYONJyVCN7VcMBMNHBst7mr09pehgS5UFagoDRNJFJYodao1cJO4yLE/s1600/VOY,+7x23+Homestead+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsFBoDvtq5xtu3swsfDVVmKMXPkbVS1hofq0RkvM2Yl7oEV2KIKGt266w08KY7zq1awsd3RHOrHzuyB_QlFnAVYONJyVCN7VcMBMNHBst7mr09pehgS5UFagoDRNJFJYodao1cJO4yLE/s320/VOY,+7x23+Homestead+1.JPG" width="147" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 7x23 "Homestead"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 7x24 "Renaissance Man"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 7x25 "Endgame"</td></tr>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/misc-observations-part-1.html">Misc. Observations, part 1</a></b><br />
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Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-21580577113529737342015-05-18T19:37:00.004-07:002016-05-21T22:45:41.202-07:00Misc. Observations, part 1<div style="text-align: justify;">
The 1998-1999 production year (comprising of <i>Deep Space Nine</i>'s final season, <i>Voyager</i>'s fifth season, and TNG's third feature, <i>Insurrection</i>) was an exciting one for costumes; that year came many additions to the Starfleet uniform family, including the DS9/NEM formal uniforms, the DS9/NEM desert robes/field uniforms, the <b><a href="http://voyundershirt.blogspot.com/2015/04/female-hero-undershirts.html" target="_blank">VOY "female hero undershirt,"</a></b> the <b><a href="http://ds9voyundergarments.blogspot.com/2015/04/part-4-ds9-season-7-voy-season-5.html" target="_blank">DS9/VOY "hero T-shirts,"</a></b> the <b><a href="http://ds9voyundergarments.blogspot.com/2015/04/part-4-ds9-season-7-voy-season-5.html" target="_blank">DS9/VOY "hero tank tops,"</a></b> <b><a href="http://ds9nemjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/misc-observations-and-errors-part-10.html" target="_blank">a new round of uniforms</a></b> for some of the crew members on all three productions, and, of course, the VOY jackets. </div>
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Interestingly, the jacket was almost exclusively used that production year (<i>Voyager</i>'s fifth season), and rather scarcely at that; basically, not everybody got to wear it, and Captain Janeway was the only character to ever get to wear it more than once!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxzSBfG3Z1Xnm3NwfFnRin6BN7ItljS-C1AP0-c7d1vEMqFgVN5qYTwZdwsoaw12e1NB-vOPgb2XyjsF4XURC1XzGCX_2QRZqC34xjRSVHhL5LaSPiUZaO9YC_EM9Gg9DI7J_qE5duzQ/s1600/VOY,+5x1+Night+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxzSBfG3Z1Xnm3NwfFnRin6BN7ItljS-C1AP0-c7d1vEMqFgVN5qYTwZdwsoaw12e1NB-vOPgb2XyjsF4XURC1XzGCX_2QRZqC34xjRSVHhL5LaSPiUZaO9YC_EM9Gg9DI7J_qE5duzQ/s320/VOY,+5x1+Night+1.jpg" width="179" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x1 "Night"</td></tr>
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The VOY jacket made its first appearance right off the bat that production year in <i>Voyager</i>'s fifth season premiere, "Night," on Captain Janeway:</div>
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The VOY jacket made its next appearance toward the middle of <i>Voyager</i>'s fifth season, although it was only draped across a chair in the background while Janeway sported her new <b><a href="http://voyundershirt.blogspot.com/2015/04/female-hero-undershirts.html" target="_blank">"female her undershirt"</a></b>:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgOrpxBHhOeRpu8_TAVOmhwHpnD9n7rgojgsxYC7Nkse03pjNg5O-FhZ3ZjwNg-klpc92e9pEB9E9bwRmzuGfvmzvpK6mOWv6jlEQgHxZKKTkZ-yT6Fuq3v-4yRApDRzvYBqbQwT5W3RQ/s1600/VOY,+5x10+Counterpoint+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgOrpxBHhOeRpu8_TAVOmhwHpnD9n7rgojgsxYC7Nkse03pjNg5O-FhZ3ZjwNg-klpc92e9pEB9E9bwRmzuGfvmzvpK6mOWv6jlEQgHxZKKTkZ-yT6Fuq3v-4yRApDRzvYBqbQwT5W3RQ/s400/VOY,+5x10+Counterpoint+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x10 "Counterpart"</td></tr>
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We next saw the jackets a few episodes later on Tom Paris and Tuvok (who were also wearing their <b><a href="http://voyundershirt.blogspot.com/2015/04/exceptions-and-oddities-part-6.html" target="_blank">"magic undershirts"</a></b> that episode): </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir37T91sZnqzirJMU3p4ST2_6XGGOH5USSjtEwpz0xWCbjhtnHlnSjiqHLamUVZ66o71eadzSyanh0_gXKWJMzKYjvUK4ODir6klusPKEhQkrD4eKi4eUIeV-MNO4sKFXuxEOCEwSj8EE/s1600/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+Tom+Paris+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir37T91sZnqzirJMU3p4ST2_6XGGOH5USSjtEwpz0xWCbjhtnHlnSjiqHLamUVZ66o71eadzSyanh0_gXKWJMzKYjvUK4ODir6klusPKEhQkrD4eKi4eUIeV-MNO4sKFXuxEOCEwSj8EE/s400/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+Tom+Paris+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x13 "Gravity"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjviCAiG9nGwVdiKTLjtVjbrIV0DlaN8brxx_hv-OnqNrsCsELSzfSssaMPwrCNszz__Qwq0_YZqLLg0LvcO-06m4zI0YlQCnszdyex5uJuQXNhpPVX1Y03nOlFqRblB8ficvuTzT7In9M/s1600/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+Tuvok+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjviCAiG9nGwVdiKTLjtVjbrIV0DlaN8brxx_hv-OnqNrsCsELSzfSssaMPwrCNszz__Qwq0_YZqLLg0LvcO-06m4zI0YlQCnszdyex5uJuQXNhpPVX1Y03nOlFqRblB8ficvuTzT7In9M/s400/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+Tuvok+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x13 "Gravity"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIhm2gw-DMTM_Y0SQyrguFaNbRVZtTGRKsHLHtHh8d7OBomkZAAYut4Pq5rUWXAf_QhQvQ3AeIuUpgKZt6EYgTPZB5iEs2kVYsAs7x4C1mKsHvWFDwiD1HZSMXao4l5veGhCMzQz8vUOM/s1600/VOY,+5x16+Dark+Frontier+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIhm2gw-DMTM_Y0SQyrguFaNbRVZtTGRKsHLHtHh8d7OBomkZAAYut4Pq5rUWXAf_QhQvQ3AeIuUpgKZt6EYgTPZB5iEs2kVYsAs7x4C1mKsHvWFDwiD1HZSMXao4l5veGhCMzQz8vUOM/s200/VOY,+5x16+Dark+Frontier+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x17 "Dark Frontier"</td></tr>
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A few episodes later, during <i>Voyager</i>'s feature-length episode, "Dark Frontier," Janeway again wore her VOY jacket, albeit briefly: </div>
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The very next episode, Harry Kim got to wear the VOY jacket for a few scenes:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMtHDLOJWoyRj1pvhaBPcEj6h0HlCJ8lZuxVhNEjZio2kf8ojxxiEeyNYaRna5SANsWUpCO_uTMfVET6Pdb71Kmt-2mK7bvejCfZ366koO1ypgHfPQgLy8Juxn2mPZt4i8GWw5cf02JdA/s1600/VOY,+5x17+Disease+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMtHDLOJWoyRj1pvhaBPcEj6h0HlCJ8lZuxVhNEjZio2kf8ojxxiEeyNYaRna5SANsWUpCO_uTMfVET6Pdb71Kmt-2mK7bvejCfZ366koO1ypgHfPQgLy8Juxn2mPZt4i8GWw5cf02JdA/s400/VOY,+5x17+Disease+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x17 "The Disease"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhSYqJb0gNZ9qMr9O7Fvi-Zn0-bEB0I4Rn3zu2o6SF4QFdoSKaJMjupyofcUpZZRLMR9R1qMKEprLn6bubWH2DopdAvFubteRXHuYEVBO3QlWUlLW9IG5fIpZryj0dmAWd2Wx-9tA7YBI/s1600/VOY,+5x18+Course+Oblivion+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhSYqJb0gNZ9qMr9O7Fvi-Zn0-bEB0I4Rn3zu2o6SF4QFdoSKaJMjupyofcUpZZRLMR9R1qMKEprLn6bubWH2DopdAvFubteRXHuYEVBO3QlWUlLW9IG5fIpZryj0dmAWd2Wx-9tA7YBI/s320/VOY,+5x18+Course+Oblivion+1.jpg" width="190" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x18 "Course: Oblivion"</td></tr>
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And the next episode, B'Elanna (well, B'Elanna's dichromate-cloned counterpart) got to briefly wear the VOY jacket: </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPMyCPJc5jrWXjqK4ZR1jMGc3nlWkA13sskV_FILfrH3rycMqIXRHKOKLU0tn-OyVLZX3mNnysUGQvp0BnAUtq7lrsPp7VuJQ8_cQvIEQm1_7h8k748U0u8VUXNNv5EkhMI-J41jqp6vg/s1600/VOY,+5x25+Warhead+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPMyCPJc5jrWXjqK4ZR1jMGc3nlWkA13sskV_FILfrH3rycMqIXRHKOKLU0tn-OyVLZX3mNnysUGQvp0BnAUtq7lrsPp7VuJQ8_cQvIEQm1_7h8k748U0u8VUXNNv5EkhMI-J41jqp6vg/s320/VOY,+5x25+Warhead+2.jpg" width="209" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x25 "Warhead"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Near the end of the season, Chakotay got to briefly wear the VOY jacket:</div>
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After that, though, we only ever saw the VOY jacket three more times: twice on Captain Janeway (well, once on her and once with her jacket draped on a chair) and once briefly on Tuvok:</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5vjSzt6B05oIl0LCFg4mt-7Y0xRNX0kajGpb7ba0c1df7rkz1EKYMiIhUzaVxWmwd2Zse5M1ilHyOr8ujVDzS1Q_LaeJkf8n3lG_cf0p1AMqY1g6pIpCSGGCjjwlmepu7MnBG34VteKY/s1600/VOY,+6x9+Voyager+Conspiracy+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5vjSzt6B05oIl0LCFg4mt-7Y0xRNX0kajGpb7ba0c1df7rkz1EKYMiIhUzaVxWmwd2Zse5M1ilHyOr8ujVDzS1Q_LaeJkf8n3lG_cf0p1AMqY1g6pIpCSGGCjjwlmepu7MnBG34VteKY/s400/VOY,+6x9+Voyager+Conspiracy+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 6x19 "The Voyager Conspiracy"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVET5GllLM6hJ-fTtePtJhSqf36eMUqsuRM1fUQtlp70lSKSLAIH35bXhAvsRrrssIoNLoKveP1pNUvEA7h0GY-Ti2EpKIWfWTeNvKnNh6cVlq9RY3AtFA-JLJ0oe_C7LXC1zff13tLI/s1600/VOY,+6x25+Haunting+Deck+Twelve+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVET5GllLM6hJ-fTtePtJhSqf36eMUqsuRM1fUQtlp70lSKSLAIH35bXhAvsRrrssIoNLoKveP1pNUvEA7h0GY-Ti2EpKIWfWTeNvKnNh6cVlq9RY3AtFA-JLJ0oe_C7LXC1zff13tLI/s400/VOY,+6x25+Haunting+Deck+Twelve+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 6x25 "The Haunting of Deck Twelve"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-NMmmMD5Fcl-eLvUh5_a7Abmu2bCuEt61TTYWUv86y3ZnJw6E8WU_fukYbWc-1wZp4Oeo3F1YT4AwjxNP7G0Qq2CnMnxudOW8UKiLaGOYxngrQqBDIClU83EZ6hXg9SuYIEtMkzpU6o/s1600/VOY,+7x4+Repression+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-NMmmMD5Fcl-eLvUh5_a7Abmu2bCuEt61TTYWUv86y3ZnJw6E8WU_fukYbWc-1wZp4Oeo3F1YT4AwjxNP7G0Qq2CnMnxudOW8UKiLaGOYxngrQqBDIClU83EZ6hXg9SuYIEtMkzpU6o/s320/VOY,+7x4+Repression+1.jpg" width="208" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 7x4 "Repression"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="text-align: justify;">The final on-screen appearance of the VOY jacket was early in </span><i style="text-align: justify;">Voyager'</i><span style="text-align: justify;">s seventh and final season: </span><br />
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We're not sure why the VOY jacket was so seldom seen after it was introduced; they were only seen a fraction of the time as the <b><a href="http://ds9nemcaptainjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/why-we-call-it-ds9nem-captain-jacket.html" target="_blank">DS9/NEM jackets</a></b> (even excluding the Sisko's "captain jacket"), and one would assume they would be easy to re-use once they were already made ... </div>
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Perhaps only a small number of VOY jackets were initially made, and that number was prohibitively small for consistent production shooting (as each actor would need multiple jackets, as would stand-ins, stunt doubles, etc., to say nothing of the occasional need for intentionally-distressed jackets). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAy0oXJ8ko1ZTgnT2aOQl7jLRkZP-w4V_LRKkc6mEDYhzH6bY6VxGRBXPXXI_BgxUvjkDg4LPEWNl8PMBDKIK12VUEcIowfgQNZ7cZX_ZP3XvldrphcskOFtpkDA_83-6HNwOc48lneJk/s1600/10th+Doctor+no+idea.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAy0oXJ8ko1ZTgnT2aOQl7jLRkZP-w4V_LRKkc6mEDYhzH6bY6VxGRBXPXXI_BgxUvjkDg4LPEWNl8PMBDKIK12VUEcIowfgQNZ7cZX_ZP3XvldrphcskOFtpkDA_83-6HNwOc48lneJk/s200/10th+Doctor+no+idea.gif" width="200" /></a></div>
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Of course, if that were the case, then why more weren't made becomes the mystery; perhaps the production budget or time didn't allow for additional jackets, perhaps it was an experiment that never really caught on (such as the <b><a href="http://ds9nemcaptainjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/evolution-of-ds9nem-jacket-part-2.html" target="_blank">DS9/NEM "Sisko variant" jacket</a></b>), or perhaps it had nothing to do with the VOY jacket itself (maybe it had to do with the pants and/or undershirts instead).<br />
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-4-lining.html">Analysis, part 4 - Lining</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/misc-observations-part-2.html">Misc. Observations, part 2</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-43990877879670079212015-05-18T19:19:00.004-07:002016-05-21T22:45:37.262-07:00Analysis, part 4 - Lining<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEqMtnGqsSLTv4PV3A-wxGuORot0Mp2NhS93yZIpXqfSo3k5cWEQU30GnuYbYwfc3oPif9EFlQVY2R1Ks8X48dBt3OWx23rdw0VNovRh9x-Asx3KvU0ws9eLkgf5_7PiC3KS62TtbA7vg/s1600/VOY,+7x4+Repression+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEqMtnGqsSLTv4PV3A-wxGuORot0Mp2NhS93yZIpXqfSo3k5cWEQU30GnuYbYwfc3oPif9EFlQVY2R1Ks8X48dBt3OWx23rdw0VNovRh9x-Asx3KvU0ws9eLkgf5_7PiC3KS62TtbA7vg/s400/VOY,+7x4+Repression+1.jpg" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 7x4 "Repression"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Lastly, it appears at, unlike its duty jumpsuit counterpart, the VOY jacket was lined:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIASAKGS8xD3bAWf0H3mbBtFl6zVwseKv8Z4dtqnGE2Gotqb4s20LT5B0u6cxIItILUHkoehhFZ7pzVsJY02W9nqUj09D4NFf_TOSNBqwGJdBaBZaHmySWmBpKrxyGb9Zgf1y9Z14wDIM/s1600/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIASAKGS8xD3bAWf0H3mbBtFl6zVwseKv8Z4dtqnGE2Gotqb4s20LT5B0u6cxIItILUHkoehhFZ7pzVsJY02W9nqUj09D4NFf_TOSNBqwGJdBaBZaHmySWmBpKrxyGb9Zgf1y9Z14wDIM/s400/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x13 "Gravity"</td></tr>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-3-elastic-waistbands.html">Analysis, part 3 - Elastic Waistbands</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/misc-observations-part-1.html">Misc. Observations, part 1</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-9782052144675771962015-05-18T19:17:00.006-07:002016-05-21T22:45:33.484-07:00Analysis, part 3 - Elastic Waistbands<div style="text-align: justify;">
Another construction feature the VOY jacket shared with <b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/analysis-part-11-elastic-waistbands.html" target="_blank">its duty jumpsuit counterpart</a></b> was the side elastic waistbands:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCiHph9rf1AcMUbVZ2MPgDhFcTcVmIvgYqbfNHTcq9T1oBZCUF2-BtHm7CMH7lUIuovpkGTX5exDEmf8vnCd_4aoIEo7oX39uRVaDkz3CyLB6km-TBY12qnUOb094ateCIzK-O_o4Os_4/s1600/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCiHph9rf1AcMUbVZ2MPgDhFcTcVmIvgYqbfNHTcq9T1oBZCUF2-BtHm7CMH7lUIuovpkGTX5exDEmf8vnCd_4aoIEo7oX39uRVaDkz3CyLB6km-TBY12qnUOb094ateCIzK-O_o4Os_4/s320/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+1.jpg" width="169" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x13 "Gravity"<br />
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</td>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7y-Ga_mLRZF3lXxdbjEhC-XMBJ9ITtJqininB_uBnJtXTC2n1AjD-GrR9lsOWqcr-XYfj5QG5piCCPuMJifJBM6LF-JTwg5fFhOhAC30BIhv3eigLvKRyxqj4n0AgoLXDp-30bPNLBpM/s1600/VOY,+6x25+Haunting+Deck+Twelve+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7y-Ga_mLRZF3lXxdbjEhC-XMBJ9ITtJqininB_uBnJtXTC2n1AjD-GrR9lsOWqcr-XYfj5QG5piCCPuMJifJBM6LF-JTwg5fFhOhAC30BIhv3eigLvKRyxqj4n0AgoLXDp-30bPNLBpM/s320/VOY,+6x25+Haunting+Deck+Twelve+10.jpg" width="171" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 6x25 <br />
"The Haunting of Deck Twelve"</td></tr>
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<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHyYWw7F3iWF4tVYvDYKihw075YTCSWifihz4l0RiGornW8-CxCO5RWYdKKH0ALMJeZ6Yi_8GPlfRJlE3U18I3hwGWrWqGZhc3PpP4od3o1388vYBrwXjJlEzkBDIrqSuO8cWkC4qBCs/s1600/Janeway+2b+(undershirt+sewn+onto+trousers).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHyYWw7F3iWF4tVYvDYKihw075YTCSWifihz4l0RiGornW8-CxCO5RWYdKKH0ALMJeZ6Yi_8GPlfRJlE3U18I3hwGWrWqGZhc3PpP4od3o1388vYBrwXjJlEzkBDIrqSuO8cWkC4qBCs/s320/Janeway+2b+(undershirt%2Bsewn%2Bonto%2Btrousers).jpg" width="193" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Janeway</td></tr>
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</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjY58YzxeYzzgl0B2YzZobHnw1LC7BINNoa-X6GQkBMW2cklC1u96Sb4iz9Q7zkWPvG1N4N8JCk6DoHZIF_TgkhRnm-SSiZvCg75zOfBRjoViZb3_imNmBt-7bXvD2g6qvZhQcWzqYpdA/s1600/Tom+Paris+1b+(GEN+pants).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjY58YzxeYzzgl0B2YzZobHnw1LC7BINNoa-X6GQkBMW2cklC1u96Sb4iz9Q7zkWPvG1N4N8JCk6DoHZIF_TgkhRnm-SSiZvCg75zOfBRjoViZb3_imNmBt-7bXvD2g6qvZhQcWzqYpdA/s320/Tom+Paris+1b+(GEN%2Bpants).jpg" width="217" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tom Paris</td></tr>
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</td>
</tr>
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<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUI8Uc9Ift0H-qqrCY66CghqT1AZOpaNz8bZ8iHbM1HFAVry-r-VEjWBFJ1GosvqygOPv2GEMu_zJDR5YJqJ8ezYrf9qX4GPZj60AdZErWGgjNLCKveUmS8_7N_9pu83OLuHjR197Kdsk/s1600/Tuvok+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUI8Uc9Ift0H-qqrCY66CghqT1AZOpaNz8bZ8iHbM1HFAVry-r-VEjWBFJ1GosvqygOPv2GEMu_zJDR5YJqJ8ezYrf9qX4GPZj60AdZErWGgjNLCKveUmS8_7N_9pu83OLuHjR197Kdsk/s320/Tuvok+2.jpg" width="210" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tuvok</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGWdDASHh4B-BoFdkKDHgSj2mpAjVk2kiRGPbyUOjjE2h8yRc4lCJ7ads54ee-cEP-S9XERpY_YUxcgYcrm08f0qbtYwkjFq4zW1NqKG2VVnXv8-USLwRbEJ1yXXeVoagsfCtDQF6g9_c/s1600/Harry+Kim+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGWdDASHh4B-BoFdkKDHgSj2mpAjVk2kiRGPbyUOjjE2h8yRc4lCJ7ads54ee-cEP-S9XERpY_YUxcgYcrm08f0qbtYwkjFq4zW1NqKG2VVnXv8-USLwRbEJ1yXXeVoagsfCtDQF6g9_c/s320/Harry+Kim+1.jpg" width="204" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harry Kim</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-2-body-panels.html">Analysis, part 2 - Body Panels</a></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-4-lining.html">Analysis, part 4 - Lining</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-62403709147812271572015-05-18T19:08:00.003-07:002016-05-21T22:45:30.004-07:00Analysis, part 2 - Body Panels<div style="text-align: justify;">
Like <b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/analysis-part-7-body-panels.html" target="_blank">its duty jumpsuit counterpart</a></b>, the VOY jacket body was comprised of eight body panels (four front, four back).<br />
<br /></div>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe57mlo7s3Z9LFvinEFU_CXFhF_9gwMUvzmkKfqII5wAgVJqrYm4Lap7daHlpBHEvKt4Dp4dXG2wvl4as0aiCRrkEWwlnP9NyZ_xKCCNpXwgnhe3zvFmF1p8m6jpjcGw1v8HbVih6ipew/s1600/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe57mlo7s3Z9LFvinEFU_CXFhF_9gwMUvzmkKfqII5wAgVJqrYm4Lap7daHlpBHEvKt4Dp4dXG2wvl4as0aiCRrkEWwlnP9NyZ_xKCCNpXwgnhe3zvFmF1p8m6jpjcGw1v8HbVih6ipew/s320/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+11.jpg" width="251" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x13 "Gravity"<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Zek6KMuYgVd87Gv-1-HCA36dytMJdq9iLSJVnQQIddrPC_KJazJm-oD0gkGm89wA9ixLnwLM9er8ZktChGpEV2UVj4xpoJXtvpZ7h9ZcRd9qJaLPmcWZdnGodbuLtTnJQmKFvIh5Bl8/s1600/VOY,+6x25+Haunting+Deck+Twelve+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Zek6KMuYgVd87Gv-1-HCA36dytMJdq9iLSJVnQQIddrPC_KJazJm-oD0gkGm89wA9ixLnwLM9er8ZktChGpEV2UVj4xpoJXtvpZ7h9ZcRd9qJaLPmcWZdnGodbuLtTnJQmKFvIh5Bl8/s320/VOY,+6x25+Haunting+Deck+Twelve+10.jpg" width="171" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 6x25<br />
"The Haunting of Deck Twelve"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy91Z3JoDnndv9MbfxOa2LMue0a_g69zitxTMCCpUXGyzFektZTVne5mK5HWJv5GpV8xufSY79M21GQrogqEesUCR9t7vwrEIig2Q9eCPwdPnK0fGI1XHvOCM9ffIXsdG9t-CmCsl-NYw/s1600/VOY,+1x5+Phage+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy91Z3JoDnndv9MbfxOa2LMue0a_g69zitxTMCCpUXGyzFektZTVne5mK5HWJv5GpV8xufSY79M21GQrogqEesUCR9t7vwrEIig2Q9eCPwdPnK0fGI1XHvOCM9ffIXsdG9t-CmCsl-NYw/s200/VOY,+1x5+Phage+3.jpg" width="193" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 1x5 "Phage"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Although <b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/analysis-part-8-front-zipper-closure.html" target="_blank">the VOY duty jumpsuits closed in the center front</a></b> via an invisible zipper and hook-and-eye closure (see below), the VOY jackets were always worn open and therefore no zippers were installed on them:</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzsYpET2h3xxiC8aLNZORVWkh0L9CBoVJ2Gs6C85xpm7a8g0ehSgyfTA7C1nZHQSCzhNNW5QTj1zwMPkAI-_a9fXrh9t75rosjCTCJ-3JjFhUPezWoRNkHnl7SAODcfiPwYEeb4asJeo/s1600/Janeway+3b+(jumpsuit).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzsYpET2h3xxiC8aLNZORVWkh0L9CBoVJ2Gs6C85xpm7a8g0ehSgyfTA7C1nZHQSCzhNNW5QTj1zwMPkAI-_a9fXrh9t75rosjCTCJ-3JjFhUPezWoRNkHnl7SAODcfiPwYEeb4asJeo/s320/Janeway+3b+(jumpsuit).jpg" width="174" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Janeway</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZaK45KQwyYG2HZB1AGE2-mkohQUOwH48yE7LbDn4VjRRrC4Uh7-X2oI1lLDAdXKmz6wNU-JPj2ZWioNE6E93gwJowXkQZWoNzOD883Uaus7UMA8j5JYVfsFFr5q7lHGADZhOf6xH6u8U/s1600/Tuvok+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZaK45KQwyYG2HZB1AGE2-mkohQUOwH48yE7LbDn4VjRRrC4Uh7-X2oI1lLDAdXKmz6wNU-JPj2ZWioNE6E93gwJowXkQZWoNzOD883Uaus7UMA8j5JYVfsFFr5q7lHGADZhOf6xH6u8U/s320/Tuvok+2.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tuvok</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikvsb7EvLz9vvf2NMA3pC_0knPuo0UrWY8erlhUrm9JBJeUiPBl7bIQGGejL7_vVKCoXsuKYjJU4lqtX9AoLStG-FHm-3UJmZ2Gn-ruTIDpZx7qFRQyL7AbAv1lA3JM6riLi8X4BIW3TM/s1600/Tom+Paris+1b+(GEN+pants).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikvsb7EvLz9vvf2NMA3pC_0knPuo0UrWY8erlhUrm9JBJeUiPBl7bIQGGejL7_vVKCoXsuKYjJU4lqtX9AoLStG-FHm-3UJmZ2Gn-ruTIDpZx7qFRQyL7AbAv1lA3JM6riLi8X4BIW3TM/s320/Tom+Paris+1b+(GEN%2Bpants).jpg" width="217" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tom Paris</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xQVaVApzbIyC-CK1VclgeveXn1mLZPz7nriDWsuQWeFFMTqgzy_u_UmIBqa2durcdDRh1k52hIWj_5_Oc7lwxlKOoicqFLGUWBRd_OWtDgNSj2BaavjAVSk9KlBBuO41j8Gxkgms9lE/s1600/Harry+Kim+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xQVaVApzbIyC-CK1VclgeveXn1mLZPz7nriDWsuQWeFFMTqgzy_u_UmIBqa2durcdDRh1k52hIWj_5_Oc7lwxlKOoicqFLGUWBRd_OWtDgNSj2BaavjAVSk9KlBBuO41j8Gxkgms9lE/s320/Harry+Kim+1.jpg" width="204" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harry Kim</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Unlike the <b><a href="http://ds9nemcaptainjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-6-back-body.html" target="_blank">DS9/NEM "captain jacket,"</a></b> which omitted <b><a href="http://ds9nemjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/analysis-part-8-action-pleats.html" target="_blank">the action pleats seen on its duty jumpsuit counterpart</a></b>, the VOY jacket had the action pleats <b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/analysis-part-9-action-pleats.html" target="_blank">its corresponding duty jumpsuit counterpart</a></b> did:</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6beQP-2enVI5SB0YjBZTHN4u6bYvF4wPTsG3gi-HJkuk_jE0V-6PAiFpiCofsIKIY_d87tujMHPwIRu92feR4t5ND6Lp484d2VylgSYwRB3NkpGzQLeeaXXXska_qSGVKSEcXh9F7A1g/s1600/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+Tuvok+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6beQP-2enVI5SB0YjBZTHN4u6bYvF4wPTsG3gi-HJkuk_jE0V-6PAiFpiCofsIKIY_d87tujMHPwIRu92feR4t5ND6Lp484d2VylgSYwRB3NkpGzQLeeaXXXska_qSGVKSEcXh9F7A1g/s400/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+Tuvok+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x13 "Gravity"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
By extension, we believe the construction standard to be for the top of the action pleat to meet the yoke at the armscye seam line (<b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/analysis-part-10-action-pleats-summary.html" target="_blank">check out our VOY duty jumpsuit analysis</a></b> for way more than you ever wanted to know about how the action pleats varied over the years).<br />
<br />
<br />
PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-1-yoke.html">Analysis, part 1 - Yoke</a></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-3-elastic-waistbands.html">Analysis, part 3 - Elastic Waistbands</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-6003253636378607692015-05-18T18:55:00.000-07:002016-05-21T22:45:26.474-07:00Analysis, part 1 - Yoke<div style="text-align: justify;">
The VOY jacket's yoke, like <b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/analysis-part-1-yoke-part-1.html" target="_blank">the VOY duty jumpsuit yoke</a></b>, indicated the division of the wearer. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Berry "red" was for command:<br />
<br /></div>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJaIgbK0Dm4kB5a3RXPQ_J-oxywYIy3xZnsy0KpCB-B9wog2VS6xeZuHfQHtqFpKAbwfNROuIO2OOJuo12o9P8nhtya0jnPjQCEoIyadhAVj9h5b3i3xRDdlxml2pwNQwN_31Us80jqag/s1600/VOY,+5x1+Night+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJaIgbK0Dm4kB5a3RXPQ_J-oxywYIy3xZnsy0KpCB-B9wog2VS6xeZuHfQHtqFpKAbwfNROuIO2OOJuo12o9P8nhtya0jnPjQCEoIyadhAVj9h5b3i3xRDdlxml2pwNQwN_31Us80jqag/s200/VOY,+5x1+Night+2.jpg" width="131" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x1 "Night"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcDGblhp3da2us6EJO5LfLmgNnlk0aJS1Kjsi8f31G61fLNfe9Z9hnYKxZZo-9qUqvPODtjvsPcqVwFuZMfvUlfzlqiEHwBAVnwDtje95LWBjDwDj38p9S6uOu6WhSabSsTry1Ef35SDE/s1600/VOY,+5x25+Warhead+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcDGblhp3da2us6EJO5LfLmgNnlk0aJS1Kjsi8f31G61fLNfe9Z9hnYKxZZo-9qUqvPODtjvsPcqVwFuZMfvUlfzlqiEHwBAVnwDtje95LWBjDwDj38p9S6uOu6WhSabSsTry1Ef35SDE/s200/VOY,+5x25+Warhead+2.jpg" width="125" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x25 "Warhead"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-tuKhtFYOFYZm5LgbfL_uVCwf0LWAmybTmMAuAFOZ_LOgQPOGTHypefZVSHs8iQpOp0NNYAPr-kdz9h5IOuo2rpLLGZdvHeAgqcbrdF76mEr0_1IWcUiqdDXWxy2YyPDEJNE2kU3ISDo/s1600/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-tuKhtFYOFYZm5LgbfL_uVCwf0LWAmybTmMAuAFOZ_LOgQPOGTHypefZVSHs8iQpOp0NNYAPr-kdz9h5IOuo2rpLLGZdvHeAgqcbrdF76mEr0_1IWcUiqdDXWxy2YyPDEJNE2kU3ISDo/s200/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+4.jpg" width="153" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x13 "Gravity"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Gold was for engineering, security, and operations:<br />
<br /></div>
<table align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMP2YS1STS7PYX4XsbTqBQ2Y8rD5pCwJM5crQxVB7oAuk96ZHbRYIFX_IQ-uLDoTXBooa_OqvIAZE9nit1dUw_BPAvooNqrlWYBnX0s-kdQv9gAZCEpu_NLaRNFYMkt52S2zoHX7j-iTg/s1600/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMP2YS1STS7PYX4XsbTqBQ2Y8rD5pCwJM5crQxVB7oAuk96ZHbRYIFX_IQ-uLDoTXBooa_OqvIAZE9nit1dUw_BPAvooNqrlWYBnX0s-kdQv9gAZCEpu_NLaRNFYMkt52S2zoHX7j-iTg/s200/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+10.jpg" width="138" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x13 "Gravity"<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksRe1C2XZzzRcTo_x_rvvpIakcljwzqscCiqs1QKK64uj4djCbdkqJHugy1JIOoZBlxSs3qqg7j0t4ZnvN2aYLJtrL6vDPv9h6qs9WjlxfVPxP9uE0iU8B_5s5UuAfhWE4xFpKdDkoq8/s1600/VOY,+5x17+Disease+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksRe1C2XZzzRcTo_x_rvvpIakcljwzqscCiqs1QKK64uj4djCbdkqJHugy1JIOoZBlxSs3qqg7j0t4ZnvN2aYLJtrL6vDPv9h6qs9WjlxfVPxP9uE0iU8B_5s5UuAfhWE4xFpKdDkoq8/s200/VOY,+5x17+Disease+6.jpg" width="121" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x17 <br />
"The Disease"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbggOqhM6OBuBHuKYcZyk3W2lBHiSXhQ_yaH6lQ4RHNC4DaGcrIf_VBNQQ1NQShFQyVO3Ae-0imp_PaI9W_VT_37dVaJRxVl3rW0UOvIGp8-yPCEgIxXzrgqjU7Ls90X8WitJaImrP0mU/s1600/VOY,+5x18+Course+Oblivion+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbggOqhM6OBuBHuKYcZyk3W2lBHiSXhQ_yaH6lQ4RHNC4DaGcrIf_VBNQQ1NQShFQyVO3Ae-0imp_PaI9W_VT_37dVaJRxVl3rW0UOvIGp8-yPCEgIxXzrgqjU7Ls90X8WitJaImrP0mU/s200/VOY,+5x18+Course+Oblivion+1.jpg" width="113" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x18 <br />
"Course: Oblivion"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We never saw a medical/sciences VOY jacket, but it's a safe bet to assume it'd be <b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/misc-observations-and-errors-part-2.html" target="_blank">the teal/green of the VOY duty jumpsuits</a></b>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The <b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/analysis-part-2-yoke-part-2.html" target="_blank">VOY duty jumpsuit yoke was interfaced with a fusible interfacing</a></b>, as evidenced by the screen-used uniform below, which was <b><a href="http://starfleet1701st.yuku.com/sreply/13651/Someone-with-a-screenused-uniform-" target="_blank">photographed and shared by "Zipkikr1966"</a></b>:</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd8wNnUmBqNSp2QCcdMcICGkPxjIaOYBKC4Rmdd_ig7wiBUE99I7PW4X7fua5UO3O_dyCj6af3kKCD9PrNmlEpUU8GrDYI96GpOveCjyzZefKziKWGh1NmZFNIaGFWuq39ZpsU4VjmKRE/s1600/Facing+and+armscye.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd8wNnUmBqNSp2QCcdMcICGkPxjIaOYBKC4Rmdd_ig7wiBUE99I7PW4X7fua5UO3O_dyCj6af3kKCD9PrNmlEpUU8GrDYI96GpOveCjyzZefKziKWGh1NmZFNIaGFWuq39ZpsU4VjmKRE/s400/Facing+and+armscye.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Thank you for sharing, Zip! </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
His photo provides us with several pieces of key information: </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
* Only the yoke was interfaced; the yoke facing was not!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
* The shoulder point may have been interfaced with a different type and/or weight of interfacing than the body yoke; note the white yoke interfacing and black shoulder point interfacing. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
* The interfacing extended onto the seam allowance. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
* A sleeve head was not installed. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
* Lastly, the area directly beneath the shoulder point's lowest point (the bottom corner - see arrow) could, and perhaps should, be reinforced with a small piece of interfacing to keep it smooth. </div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The yoke had a facing, also division-colored:</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGnEnS_bU94Cp4IkbgitDVpz66i6M5Qd8gBp24IRjwXBt5_vL1sVIFQFHIz_zawhp4rvBwW-PU0sNLQTn8uV83V2IFBNabr_Nmt-tmKoOMa9Ha65-1FcvyEy2DbczIHbV5RWCQXV0D2m4/s1600/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGnEnS_bU94Cp4IkbgitDVpz66i6M5Qd8gBp24IRjwXBt5_vL1sVIFQFHIz_zawhp4rvBwW-PU0sNLQTn8uV83V2IFBNabr_Nmt-tmKoOMa9Ha65-1FcvyEy2DbczIHbV5RWCQXV0D2m4/s400/VOY,+5x13+Gravity+5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 5x13 "Gravity"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We believe it reasonable to assume that the VOY jacket had the same seam allowances as its corresponding jumpsuit, which means that the yoke/yoke facing seam allowances were ⅜", and the yoke/body seam allowances were considerably larger (perhaps ¾").</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg35yOAsvmT1TqPtJlPdYR9x5fZTNyOebxuksHnzSXG8YY3c1HySCLNbC0tDiACTUOCaVHuadMAu9xPhAb0z_3W_zVa_U0TsZHj77J2rIWPsrdLl4I1RTkFHnH_RKVZ40Sy-uLV6bQMDVU/s1600/VOY,+2x3+Projections+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg35yOAsvmT1TqPtJlPdYR9x5fZTNyOebxuksHnzSXG8YY3c1HySCLNbC0tDiACTUOCaVHuadMAu9xPhAb0z_3W_zVa_U0TsZHj77J2rIWPsrdLl4I1RTkFHnH_RKVZ40Sy-uLV6bQMDVU/s400/VOY,+2x3+Projections+5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VOY, 2x3 "Projections" (VOY duty jumpsuit pictured)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The back yoke/body seam allowances seemed a bit large, too (again, perhaps ¾"): </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisppq8vvOKtzyy11kDEpB10Q5W_bXkoQKr4mLA0ULHOKP4AYqfDA-w7OFD3zlXLbDWU2jh48slqu6Cnt55sM4hB5OAfsYNmJupUnwmX9HTTXTXrE8FFI6RYctElxi0Yfc_EahjMZUfNCQ/s1600/DS9,+1x20+In+Hands+Prophets+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisppq8vvOKtzyy11kDEpB10Q5W_bXkoQKr4mLA0ULHOKP4AYqfDA-w7OFD3zlXLbDWU2jh48slqu6Cnt55sM4hB5OAfsYNmJupUnwmX9HTTXTXrE8FFI6RYctElxi0Yfc_EahjMZUfNCQ/s400/DS9,+1x20+In+Hands+Prophets+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DS9, 1x20 "In the Hands of the Prophets (VOY duty jumpsuit pictured)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
On the <b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/04/analysis-part-2-yoke-part-2.html" target="_blank">VOY duty jumpsuits</a></b>, the front yoke/body seam allowances were pressed open, but the back yoke/body seam allowances were pressed upward; on both the front and the back, the yoke facing was secured via a "stitch in the ditch" from the right side along the yoke/body seam line, as evidenced by <b><a href="http://starfleet1701st.yuku.com/sreply/16193/My-VOYDS9-jumper-project" target="_blank">these photos of a screen-used VOY duty jumpsuit shared by "LtComm"</a></b>: </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2iRrozgAzAvnqq-L4l2HQLmup2Fsx9mtuwHTcKgTBtElEDCtq_WzLGuIUNerwcT_iEDpakk1J_ucrZS2WSy6IO7LRBDVYvF4O7j7RJb-WQh71N7fCc6ZszDcYvCgauyqOtu3orDp702Y/s1600/Yoke+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2iRrozgAzAvnqq-L4l2HQLmup2Fsx9mtuwHTcKgTBtElEDCtq_WzLGuIUNerwcT_iEDpakk1J_ucrZS2WSy6IO7LRBDVYvF4O7j7RJb-WQh71N7fCc6ZszDcYvCgauyqOtu3orDp702Y/s400/Yoke+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTS6tAbzS-fW_zbW3G1cCsA-ax-Zd18ed-D0dtL0be5t7wOcx-qnfxqN_rvFkbIYzg0WMHZBgSytf_3Llm4euaISQe8PG4nwVwrhGpejgQMRrscAKaWJ5IwxHIvCEuBtu4R3lLv44sxgA/s1600/Yoke+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTS6tAbzS-fW_zbW3G1cCsA-ax-Zd18ed-D0dtL0be5t7wOcx-qnfxqN_rvFkbIYzg0WMHZBgSytf_3Llm4euaISQe8PG4nwVwrhGpejgQMRrscAKaWJ5IwxHIvCEuBtu4R3lLv44sxgA/s400/Yoke+3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<br />
PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-preface.html">Analysis, preface</a></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-2-body-panels.html">Analysis, part 2 - Body Panels</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-63926422684241883432015-05-18T18:40:00.002-07:002016-05-21T22:45:22.801-07:00Analysis, preface<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu1TxmdDfv2e0YqmGkRuD_7urHwsFo9s8Rq_lvFYfDJrhzvrXafMWttUPLK9lVszNW-JpLEPLbvg28fEraYSESPzX8Bnh8mM71VBShHvm8utWxMvZFKkdtQrenAAiMYFaQVqeeasn2TB0/s1600/Morpheus+what+if+I+told+you.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu1TxmdDfv2e0YqmGkRuD_7urHwsFo9s8Rq_lvFYfDJrhzvrXafMWttUPLK9lVszNW-JpLEPLbvg28fEraYSESPzX8Bnh8mM71VBShHvm8utWxMvZFKkdtQrenAAiMYFaQVqeeasn2TB0/s200/Morpheus+what+if+I+told+you.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div>
that, <b><a href="http://ds9nemcaptainjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/comparison-to-ds9nem-duty-jumpsuit.html" target="_blank">unlike the DS9/NEM "captain jacket,"</a></b> the VOY jacket was, basically, the upper portion of the jumpsuit?</div>
<div>
<br />
(Plus facings, lining, etc., of course.)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="text-align: justify;">On the one hand, this provided some nice design consistency in the uniforms. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
However, on the other hand, that same consistency seemed to create the illusion of "magic jumpsuits" that inexplicably transformed into 2-piece uniforms (jacket + pants) and back again, in a similar manner to <b><a href="http://ds9nemcaptainjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/why-we-call-it-ds9nem-captain-jacket.html" target="_blank">the DS9/NEM "magic jumpsuits,"</a></b> but that may have been the intent, especially considering how infrequently the VOY jackets were seen. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In other words, the VOY jackets were rarely seen, and when they were, the visual implication was that they were the same uniforms the crew always wore, but simply with the upper half (i.e. the jacket) "unzipped" or removed. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Or, in a nutshell, we may have been supposed to believe that future space uniforms somehow closed and opened, joined and separated, etc. by some method and/or technology currently unknown to us. (This would be in keeping with Gene Roddenberry's vision of future zipper-less clothing.) </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
This being the case (for whatever reason), we'll briefly summarize the relevant points of our VOY duty jumpsuit analysis as they apply to the corresponding VOY jacket.<br />
<br />
<br />
NEXT: <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/2015/05/analysis-part-1-yoke.html">Analysis, part 1 - Yoke</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7763438219191465414.post-822897618656960142015-05-16T20:36:00.001-07:002015-05-16T20:36:08.812-07:00Donate<div style="text-align: justify;">
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